Don't know which way to turn!
 

My hand brake is not holding too well. I installed the uprated compensator as sold via this Forum some time ago which sorted things but its now in need of attention again so I'm going to adjust the brake shoes. I've done this before but can't remember which way to rotate the screw adjuster as its not easy to see what's what!
To push the shoes further apart do I push the adjuster over or under?
Trial and error would tell me but I recall that its a slow process and I would prefer to spend as little time in the cold as possible!
Regards
Ed

HI Ed.
It should be rotate upwards to close the shoes onto the drum, use a flat bladed screw driver through one of the wheel stud holes, usually at about 11.00,oclcock and 1.00 oclock.

First adjust the front cable nut to the end of it's thread, then adjust at the rear, best to lock the drum, then back them off a little until you feel them dragging by hand on the drum.

Once you feel you have them both the same then adjust front cable nut so there is 25mm of thread showing of the top of the nut.

https://i.imgur.com/Uazse1yl.jpg1

If you have never removed the drum disc then i would say that it would be a good idea to, that way you can clean the drum out, and also clean the brake shoes and back plates.

This will remove any dust build up within the drum and around the shoes.

https://i.imgur.com/wDmIZwLl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/AywqjKSl.jpg3

Scrap the back plate and paint them.
https://i.imgur.com/LBdNZUll.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/WlxZNsjl.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/v9nWLUsl.jpg6

just corrected our Nigels handbrake for mot but its always been soft so after setting it up as described by arctic above I had to put a couple of washers on the cable bolt holding it onto the handbrake as the cable was stretched a little. Relatively new shoes and new disc/drum the washers worked a treat pulling the cable a few mm tighter now got 4 clicks solid handbrake.

have you replaced the compensator with a modified type or is it the original design? From your description I would look at the compensator for being stretched.

macafee2

Many thanks for your prompt response - the photo of the shoes and adjuster are self explanatory. The drum has never been off so I'll take your advice and remove it first and give it all a good clean out.
It surprises me that the shoes wear given that they are not used to retard the car - simply to prevent the wheel from rotating once the discs have done their job.
Ed

Just to confuse things a little. :) Arctic is quite right that you move the adjuster up to open it. That is of course as long as nobody has fitted it the other way on, ( with the adjuster to the left)
then the opposite is true.

When you have the discs off you might find a mess to sort out be warned. The back plates do corrode and the holes that the pins go through that hold the shoes on become to large due to said corrosion. Washers can fix it but best to think about renewing the back plates long term if you have that sort of dilapidation to deal with.

HI John.
As above it will be the compensator that as stretched not the front cable or the rear cables as they are to robust to stretch, i have not seen any cables stretched in the last 11 years since doing HB

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=152526

I remove both rear discs and inspect and clean the brake shoes and drums then set the adjusters before every MOT.

Bit of Copaslip on the wheel contact points ensures they come off easy next time round. :icon_lol:

I have just done the same prior to the MOT and its a straightforward DIY job which should be done by as part of routine maintenance. :xmas-smiley-008: