V6 gurgle noise behind the dashboard centre?
 

Hi folks,

I decided to take the 75 out this morning tondo the family shop and with gentle revs around 1500rpm a water gurgling noise could be heard behind the centre of the dash.
Haven't noticed the coolant level drop. Tried looking into the V of the engine, can't see a great deal but possibly slightly damp but can't say if it's coolant.
After a short run of about 13 miles i couldn't hear the gurgle anymore. Is it normal? Or airlock in the matrix?

Thanks in advance

Rob

Air lock in the heater matrix

Don’t think I’ve had a v6 that hasn’t done this...

Needs a proper bleed to remove the trapped air.

Thought as much, bummer. I've seen people me toon a vacuum bleeder? Anyone any recommendations on th best method to bleed the coolant system?

Thanks
Rob

Courtesy of Simon.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...5&postcount=15

Thanks for the link, much appreciated. I'll take the top cover off and see if I can see any signs of any leaks etc and if all is well, I"LL try and give it a bleed.

Thanks
Rob

Hello gentlemen, I’d like to purge my cooling circuit.

Can you tell me where the radiator bottom hose bleed screw is on the kv6 2.5?
I found a drain screw on a hose near the battery.
Thank you

I'm fairly sure the screw on the hose you found is an air bleed screw.--:shrug:

Hi Jon
You are 100% sure ;)
https://i.imgur.com/Cbl97qll.jpg1

Just an update,

So today, I checked the coolant level, took off the engine cover to check the thermostat housing and found coolant around the thermostat housing (not all over just a puddle to the left and right directly under the thermostat housing.)

Using a cloth I carefully cleaned up the coolant or what I'm guessing is coolant. Checked for visible cracks etc in the pipework but couldn't find anything.

Then, raised the header tank, using a block of wood.

entered diagnostic mode for the engine temperature.

Got it up to temp, the cooling fans kicked in at 100°c according to the diagnostics readout. The coolant gauge remained firmly at the 9°clock position. I then switched off, undid the bleed screw in the top hose that leads to the thermostat housing (as per arctics pic thanks!) Found there to be some air coming through and then a steady trickle of coolant. Did this process twice to be sure. Then replaced the coolant header tank and started it up once again to allow it to run for a few mins before shutting down.

Could still hear pressure within the header tank (a kettle like noise). Which stopped after a few seconds.

No visible leaks around the thermostat housing no steam etc anywhere else.either so will have to keep an eye on it.

I hadn't noticed a coolant level drop at anytime so not sure where this coolant/fluid had come from.

While the car was warming up, I also turned on the a/c to try and work out which fans were working and found it difficult to tell which fans were high/medium and low.
However the fan came on and off when th AC was used and turned off. The fan also kicked in when engine coolant temp reached 100°c then stayed on for a few moments before turning back off when the coolant temp dropped.

Wether the low speed fan doesn't work or not.. I'm not too worried at this stage as I have what appears to be a high speed fan which takes care of the excess heat in the engine coolant department ( will look into sorting it if it turns out the resistor is at fault at some point in the future).

Question I have is... At what temp should the coolant fan kick in? Should there also be more than one radiator fan speed in relation to the engine temp i.e 100c is low the. 120 is high speed for example?

I'm hoping the issue is sorted but I'm 50/50 about the successfulness in fairness.

Thanks
Rob