Anyone able to help with front control arm replacement near Cambridge?
 

Hello everyone,

I've not been online for a while (actually a really long time!) as the Rover has been an absolute joy to drive and has been totally reliable, just tipping over 100,000 miles a little while ago

It had its MoT today and has come back needing its front lower control arms replaced to secure a pass - I'm looking to do the job myself.

Is there anyone around here who would be able to lend me a hand to do it? Or would anyone be able to recommend a mobile mechanic around here?

The garage who MoTed the car say it's about 4 hours labour + Parts which will be around £450 minimum. That's looking like new car type of money to me!

I've seen some of the posts about it on here and it looks like the two difficulties are freeing the 150Nm bolts that hold the rear bush into place and also using a puller to free the inner balljoint. I have a three-legged puller for the latter, I hope that will do the job. I think I've got all the other tools required as well.

I've seen the various options for replacement parts, and the varying quality reported by people. DMGRS are advertising quality parts at the mo for reasonable cash:

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...2500-rbx101760

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Try asking Ivan at Chatteris Garage in the High St. Might even be cheaper to supply the parts yourself. He will fit them. I have in the past had him fit an arm, and another time fit the bush (which sounds more likely as the rubber insert breaks up). Price nothing like you were quoted.

Stewart
(No connection, just a satisfied customer of a good garage)

Hi Simon,

I've literally just finished this job, all on my own!

First of all, what exactly is wrong with the lower suspension arm? For example, a split balljoint boot?

I, along with others, had terrible trouble releasing the outer balljoint nut and bolt on both sides. A blowlamp, club hammer and percussion were required in sequence, for a very long time! You may be one of the lucky ones, but be prepared for grief (and a bigger bill if you're paying). ;)

The best way to release the 150Nm rear bush housing bolts is to remove the anti-roll bar saddle clamp and the bar can then be moved forwards (with it disconnected from the link). You can then use a hexagon impact socket on the bolts which is much better than messing about with ring spanners linked together.

Your three legged puller should be ideal for the inner balljoint provided that the legs are articulated. I used a Sykes Pickavant for this task and it was excellent.

You already sound very well informed on this so I hope you'll forget about the garage and mobile mechanic. If I can be of further help, let me know. :D

Simon

That's impressive. Fair play to you, sir.

Makes me feel like a wet blanket in my thirties being afraid of having to do it one day.

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for your replies. The fault listed on the MoT is excessive play in the ball joint on the offside with an advisory on the near side as well.

You've convinced me to give it a go and I've ordered the parts from DMGRS. If they arrive on time I may take Friday off work and make a start.

If all else fails, I shall keep Ivan at Chatteris in mind, cheers for the recommendation Stewart. My sister in law lives on the Highstreet and has used the garage before - she also speaks highly of him. He MoTed a Montego for me many moons ago, too!

Simon and Colvert - Thank you for the encouragement, it's good to know that I'm treading a recently trodden path!! The good news is that I've had the outer balljoint nut and bolt off fairly recently as I had to replace the damper. I hope it's going to be kind to me again.

I've certainly got a bit of chain and a length of scaffolding pole to get the outer ball joint out of the hub!

I'll update the thread as I make (or don't make) progress.

PS Colvert - that's inspirational!! I was going to give my dad (at the age of 75) a break from this job as up until Covid, he always helped me with car work if possible. Maybe I should see if he wants to come and lend a hand. I always think two minds are better than one, even if one of them is mine.

If you already had the bottom hub pinch bolt out recently it sounds that you have got a flying start . Access is to the rear bolts awkward on top of the subframe awkward but achievable with normal spanners . Also normally you can remove the inner ball joint taper with a good hit with a heavy hammer .(its scrap anyway ) I have never had to resort to a puller yet

Yes its awkward and a chew but hopefully you won't find it as daunting as been described.

On the other note . Interesting you last had a R45 , I have totally stripped down the front suspension on mine and as rusty as it looked it all came apart with no issues

I bought an 18mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head to access mine a few years ago, was the only thing I could find to access those 2 bolts on the subframe bush. Horrible job though, and I vowed never to do it myself again! Had the next one in to Ivan at Chatteris, he said if you have a pit/hydraulic ramp, you have much more access to do the job. anyway.

Stewart

best check the amount of grease in the joints, mine had next to nothing !


C

I tried removing mine in the past by hitting the subframe balljoint from underneath, but as the arm is usually scrap when being replaced , I use a forked balljoint splitter as you can get a better swing at it and that has always worked for me.