Bit of moral support needed after MoT fail...
 

Hello chaps,

It's been an annoying day - the Tourer failed its MoT today, which is the first time it's ever had as much as an advisory other than tyres on its MoT record.

The work required isn't too bad at all and in truth if I'd been more organised I'd probably have done most of it before the test, but life gets in the way sometimes, doesn't it....?

It's failed on rear brakes, handbrake and most annoyingly a rotten upper rear suspension arm, as well as a couple of other annoyances which amount to nothing more than changing a couple of bulbs. Advisories were mainly about thin front brake discs which will also get replaced before a retest.

I'd actually bought new rear discs and pads prior to the test, when I also did a service and lots of other preparatory stuff, but hadn't the time or the required TORX bit (what size is it anyway?!) to replace before the test, and only noticed the rot in the upper arm the day before. Grrr.

Anyway, thanks to this forum (hello Arctic!!) I've got a handbrake compensator on the way and also from DMGRS a new suspension arm so if those get here for Friday, I can spend the day fitting them, along with the discs and pads. I reckon my yearly subs is money well spent.

How much of a pain is it to fit the upper arm?- I guess It'll be a case of removing the rear subframe? maybe an opportunity for some major waxoyling while I'm under there.

Anyway, here's to getting another one through for another year :-)

I believe if your extremely lucky the captive nut will hold and if so the subframe can be left in place, if the weld breaks then the subframe needs to be removed.

Go for it:bowdown: not only satisfying, you'll know your work will be good for many more years:cool:

Hi Simon.
SSC compensator packed and ready to post out for you first thing in the morning, back disc drum torx is a 50, insert and give it a quick tap with an hammer, it should come free quite easy.

You will also need an allen key 7mm for the sliders and a good 13mm six sided ring spanner for caliper bracket good luck hope it all goes smooth for you.

Those captive nuts make me :mad: sometimes, hope yours stays firm mate

Next job on my 75, parked up awaiting to be fixed :eek:

The captive nuts can be re-welded into place, no need to remove the rear sub frame :D

T50 for the discs, same as the seats.

Thanks for the replies and helpful info, chaps! Much appreciated.

I'll avail myself of a T50 Torx bit and keep it in the same box as my 36mm socket that I bought which gets used once a year to change the oil filter :-)

Here's to a nice smooth operation on Friday and to that weld holding...

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thank you, That is useful to know, I thought there might be little access to the captive nut hence why I see on alot of posts the sub frame being dropped. I need two new arms and I was not looking forward to the thought of issues with the bolt and the nightmare of dropping the sub frame.