Handbrake R40 (Alternative) Mini R50/R53
 

Handbrake modification (Alternative )

About a week to 12 days ago I got talking to Gary (Borg Warner) about a an alternative option for the handbrake mod, using a Mini R50/R53 cable and equaliser.

He had been reading through the handbrake mod's and googled handbrake cables etc and it threw up the above Mini cable etc, I had in the past looked at this but did not follow it through the reason being that you have to 99.9% of the time have to purchase the whole unit handbrake lever cable and equaliser.

These can be bought either from the bay, second hand or new links will be posted at the end of the thread.

We both agreed that it would work I must say that Gary was more enthusiastic about it than me, because even though he or myself had not fitted one I knew from past experience when a cable had broken on a members car how fiddly a job it was to change the cable.

With this modification both the cable and equaliser as to be used if we could have just used the equaliser part it would have been so much easier, I fitted one last Friday evening 26th at the nano meet while doing that one I hit a snag the cable became stuck due to pulling it to hard therefore wedging it, this then became a task in it's self to remove.

A couple of days ago Gary ( Borg Warner) fitted his and he as informed me his went quite well but he did not have time to take photo's, therefore today I decided to have another go on my MGZT my finding and photo's are below enjoy.

Comparison to the SSC & Original stretched compensator.
1a
http://i63.tinypic.com/2cxfgva.jpg
2b
http://i67.tinypic.com/2mff2m8.jpg
3c
http://i63.tinypic.com/2zrkg2w.jpg

4d
http://i62.tinypic.com/24osyhi.jpg

Make sure if you purchase one it as the rubber O-ring in this photo.
5e
[img]http://i61.tinypic.com/2yopax1.jpg[/img


(Handbrake Alternative mod using a Mini R50/R53 cable & Equaliser) how to.

Tools you will need in my opinion to complete this modification below Fig 1
long reach socket 13mm, a long posi drive screw driver or an l shaped small socket, Stanley knife, 10 mm ratchet spanner, three piece's of wood one with a Vcut out 9" and two 11"-12" long.
http://i66.tinypic.com/25007c4.jpg1

Tools for the front work on the handbrake adjuster. Fig 2
http://i64.tinypic.com/2afwzyb.jpg2

Tools for the rear work on the compensator part. Fig 3
http://i67.tinypic.com/24vs7ec.jpg3

Extra long flat blade screw driver this is used to bend over the tag later in the how to. Fig 4
http://i68.tinypic.com/2hnw17d.jpg4

Also a medium pry bar which came in handy Fig 5
http://i65.tinypic.com/34r9dux.jpg5

Ok lets start first remove the handbrake lever cover Fig 6/7/8/9
http://i67.tinypic.com/j5ift1.jpg6

Always start at the top nearest to the arm rest as this will stop you breaking the front tag on the lever cover.
http://i63.tinypic.com/2irrl2v.jpg7

Twist the handle and remove
http://i66.tinypic.com/2lihgkj.jpg8

http://i67.tinypic.com/11b2881.jpg9

Now we have the handbrake gaiter removed you can move the seats forward and as low as they will go Fig10/11
http://i68.tinypic.com/23jh2qo.jpg10

Driver seat will go lower than the passenger one.
http://i65.tinypic.com/6szzht.jpg11

With the seats forward and low you can access the two screws either side of the console remove them Fig 12/14
http://i63.tinypic.com/1pe6o8.jpg12

http://i67.tinypic.com/2dbv1g0.jpg14

Now the screws are removed from the side of the console we can turn our attention to the front adjuster nut this to as to be removed try not to drop it into the console. Fig 15
http://i67.tinypic.com/25f3lv6.jpg15

Use the long reach 13 mm socket to remove the nut Fig 16
http://i64.tinypic.com/v4c8lv.jpg16

Slowly pull out the socket with the nut in the end Fig 18/19
http://i65.tinypic.com/6hn913.jpg18

With the front adjuster nut removed put it somewhere safe Fig 19
http://i68.tinypic.com/x1bqt4.jpg19

You can now make a start on the rear of the car take out the ash tray to access the two 10mm bolts holding the rear of the console down Fig 20/21
http://i64.tinypic.com/313jd5h.jpg20

http://i65.tinypic.com/zo9h75.jpg21

Using the 10mm ratchet spanner remove the two bolts Fig 22/23
http://i64.tinypic.com/bfi2qf.jpg22

http://i65.tinypic.com/t0hnvb.jpg23

Next remove the carpet kicker covers passenger side is pushed towards the front of the car Fig 24
http://i65.tinypic.com/6gvlv5.jpg24

Then lift it off the clips sometimes these can break so you may have to use new ones when re-fitting Fig 25
http://i67.tinypic.com/a17bti.jpg25

Drivers side you push toward the back of the car Fig 26
http://i68.tinypic.com/sqp64p.jpg26

Now pull up the door rubbers a little so the carpet can be lifted later do both sides Fig 27
http://i67.tinypic.com/2eg40w9.jpg27

At the same time unclip the side panel only pop it out a little no need to go mad Fig 28/29
http://i65.tinypic.com/2e0mwd4.jpg28

http://i65.tinypic.com/14ke1b7.jpg29

Once you have both sides unclipped you can tease the carpet from under there up to the seat belt anchor Fig 30/31
http://i63.tinypic.com/esm7n6.jpg30

http://i66.tinypic.com/fnu0ls.jpg31

Our next move is to lift the corners of the seat to release the carpet from it's two lugs underneath Fig 32
http://i68.tinypic.com/k3mbv5.jpg32

Again no need to pull hard the seat will just pop up and reveal the lug holding the carpet in place Fig 33
http://i67.tinypic.com/2nkqqex.jpg33

Lift the carpet off the lug and leave it out side of the seat Fig 34
http://i65.tinypic.com/25jbnt4.jpg34

Same procedure the other side of the car Fig 35
http://i67.tinypic.com/53plvo.jpg35

The carpet should now look like this in the pic below Fig 36
http://i67.tinypic.com/21e3lgk.jpg36

We are now at the stage where we can lift the back of the console using the piece of wood with the V cut into it Fig 38
http://i66.tinypic.com/2n0vwi0.jpg38

With the console lifted up it will help with access later to remove the old compensator ready for the R53 Fig 39
http://i65.tinypic.com/250r1xs.jpg39

While the console is lifted use the Stanley knife to cut the little piece of carpet under the rear of it, some will say you do not need to do this, but believe me it helps when lifting the carpet to do the extraction of the old compensator and inserting the new R53 one Fig 40
http://i64.tinypic.com/20jfvp1.jpg40

With carpet cut you can see from the pic's below it helps to get that little bit of access to the compensator and also remove the front part of the cable Fig 41/43
http://i67.tinypic.com/4ha7hj.jpg41

You can just see the little black clip you have to remove before the front cable will release from the front of the compensator
http://i68.tinypic.com/2hwp3m8.jpg43

Now comes the part most do not like as they struggle with the carpet, I say no just use the two pieces of 11"-12" of wood to hold the carpet back a great help if you are doing this job on your own Fig 44/45/
http://i64.tinypic.com/2qki1rp.jpg44

http://i64.tinypic.com/e0ohmd.jpg45

Now that the carpets are lifted you can now remove the three torx 25 bolts holding the cover over the compensator. Fig 47/48
http://i66.tinypic.com/2d7bpeq.jpg47

http://i65.tinypic.com/9qfrf6.jpg48

Lift the cover off this will reveal the compensator below Fig 49
http://i66.tinypic.com/zx3dw0.jpg49

Release the two rear cable from the compensator Fig 50
http://i66.tinypic.com/28utc1d.jpg50

Right we now need to go back to the front of the car note I am always working from the passenger side of the car as this is the best access to all the parts you need to get to.
There is a little tag holding the cable in it's channel on the lever, this must be pushed backwards so the cable can be released for changing over to the Mini R53 cable lift the side of the console carefully so no damaged can be done,to access the lug which is hard to see at first Fig 51
http://i68.tinypic.com/2eogw0m.jpg51

As you can see I used the pry bar for this as it gave good leverage hopefully you can make out the lug/pin that need to be pushed back Fig 52
http://i64.tinypic.com/2f0ano0.jpg52

With the little peg pushed backwards I then pulled the cable through to the front of the console, Gary may have done this different but I found this to be the best way for me Fig
http://i68.tinypic.com/rhj020.jpg53

I then tapped the cable out slowly while pulling the cable at the same time, this then released the cable from the front lever Fig 54/55
http://i64.tinypic.com/2vux9ia.jpg54

http://i63.tinypic.com/xdi05x.jpg55

With the cable removed I then feed the new Mini R53 cable in from the rear of the console through to the front making sure the cable was the right side of the lug ie cable was in front of the lug as you looked at it, Fig 56/57
http://i68.tinypic.com/e7e3hc.jpg56

http://i67.tinypic.com/oftspi.jpg57

The cable now needs to be feed into the square hole from below this is the tricky and fiddly, it can take a few tries,it is a lot easier if some can push the cable forward for from the rear of the console at this time save having to reach over and do it your self, Fig 58
http://i68.tinypic.com/1zgt7hw.jpg58

With your hand inside the front of the console guide the cable through the square aperture of the lever Fig 59
http://i66.tinypic.com/rhr8xx.jpg59

Now you have the cable through fit the adjuster front nut flush with the thread Fig 60/61
http://i67.tinypic.com/162fsg.jpg60

http://i63.tinypic.com/2wgg2fm.jpg61

The handbrake lever can now be lowered ready to fit the rear cables Fig 62
http://i64.tinypic.com/18nhnn.jpg62

Fit the rear cables Fig 63/64
http://i67.tinypic.com/106g7zo.jpg63

http://i68.tinypic.com/v5khfd.jpg64

With the rear cable fitted into the equaliser, the rear compensator cover and carpets can be reinstated Fig 65
http://i67.tinypic.com/20a5hck.jpg65

Before removing the V piece of wood and dropping the rear of the console do not forget to bend the little peg back that holds the cable in it's channel on the handbrake lever, once you have done that all carpets can be fitted back as they should be Fig 66
http://i64.tinypic.com/ml2hqg.jpg66

Now that the rear console and carpets are back in place re-fit the side console screws Fig 67/68
http://i66.tinypic.com/2rfwry0.jpg67

http://i64.tinypic.com/2mqoy6g.jpg68

Remember you will need to adjust at the rear wheels through the wheel bolt hole, I did not have to do this as mine were already adjusted Fig 69
http://i63.tinypic.com/eg4gh3.jpg69

Once you have adjusted at the rear wheels you can then and only then adjust at front cable, I adjusted mine to 20mm as these Mini R53 cable & equalisers are a bit tighter therefore giving you an extra 5mm at the front thread well in my case anyway Fig 70
http://i67.tinypic.com/2qibl0i.jpg70

Refit the handbrake gaiter and the job is complete Fig 71
http://i64.tinypic.com/9axx12.jpg71

The modification is not as quick as fitting the SSC as there is more work involved but the out come is the same a nice adjusted handbrake on two /three clicks therefore an alternative to the SSC and the welded compensators.

Hopefully this will help members should they wish to go down this road, the R53 as I have name it can be purchased either second hand from the bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Mini-C...item3aac25df04

Or from the link Gary supplied from another channel and post on here.
http://www.bmminiparts.com/PartDetai...A-615FBDB34A3C

Enjoy and if I can answer any questions on these I will do but I think I may have covered it all, it is a great bit of kit but like with everything time will tell cheers Arctic.



Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this How-To.

Handbrake modification (Alternative )
 

I have had to miss out a few photo's as this thread is very pic heavy :eek: you are only allowed 75 pics :D it took me longer to post the thread than it did to do the modification, hopefully it is easy to follow Arctic ;)

Steve, fantastic mate:bowdown::bowdown: another sticky in the making:cool:

Steve do you have a photograph of the R53 compensator from the front cable end?

The part of the original set up which has never made sense to me is the lack of compensation that actually goes on.

Does the R53 front cable rotate freely around the axis of the barrel nipple on the aft end of the front cable?

Brian :D

Perhaps being devils advocate here, but I have a feeling that the lack of compensation movement is intentional. It might prevent total loss of braking if one cable broke?

Hi Brian.
Yes rotation is free around the axis hopefully the photo's below will show it in it's full glory cheers Arctic. ;)

Excellent Steve, thanks for that, I never fully understood the way the original compensator could actually compensate with such restricted movement.

We shall see, as I have tried all of the other methods of compensator modification in the past.

Brian :D

Hi Leslie
There is more than enough compensation and I doubt the cable would brake it is to robust, but if it did the other brake shoe should still hold ;) I may try it out at the next meet by just fitting one cable and seeing if the car will hold on a slope etc :}

Nice work again. I want to know what's so special about the piece of wood you had to write your name on it ;)

Think it may go walk-a-bout?;)

Thanks for this Steve:bowdown::bowdown: and is the same as I did mine, although it took me a little longer.

I can only (cynically) think that MGR had this additional item in the H/B so as to make money out of owners?:duh::duh: As the compensator was available as a separate item, along with an access plate underneath the car, they patently knew it would deform and require replacing.:mad::mad: In addition, with the overlap of ownership between the two models, 75/ZT and Mini, during their development process, surely the designers would converse with each other?:shrug::shrug: When BMW off-loaded MGR perhaps the powers that be at BMW saw the "error" of such a mechanism and opted for a more conventional method on their Mini?

With the focus of cost cutting illustrated under Project Drive, MGR left us with this perfidious bit of kit in our cars, but removed the second horns, proper reflectors on the doors and plastic covers on seat belt anchorage points amongst other, less important items. Bewildering.

Finally Mat:bowdown: is looking to see if he can get the cable/equaliser separately, hopefully he can.

Regards

BW

Hi Mike
:D It comes from a special forest which grows the best pine :D also when at the meets if people borrow it they know it's not theirs and as to go back in my tool box, something we always did on site as tools seemed to find new homes otherwise ;)

Hi Gary.
A big thank you to you also for revitalising my interest in the HB:bowdown:, i did mention it to you on the other side that I looked at it sometime ago but let it slide because of having to purchase the whole unit, as we both agree I think this should have been the part used on the 75/ZT from the start, i must admit though i wish it could be fitted as easy as the SSC maybe after a bit of practice i could bring the time down to about 50 minutes.


I am at the moment in contact with a person whom says he can supply me with a good quantity of these but I am waiting on the price, in the mean time I will stick with the SSC at meets etc as time is always in short supply cheers Arctic. ;)

Handbrake Mod R53
 

Ordered and obtained a few more just in case I am asked for one at the nano, it should keep the owner occupied for a couple of hours fitting it, with supervision of cause :} I do not intend to get caught up on fitting these at the nano as time is already really limited due to being busy, the time just fly's by when your having fun.:D

Before the mod on the mod
http://i60.tinypic.com/2sanl3d.jpg

After with the belt and braces mod
http://i62.tinypic.com/msiuyg.jpg

And the one not to buy is the one in the bottom of this photo as it is a little short.
http://i62.tinypic.com/2i7y9z4.jpg

Steve,

What is the difference between the ones in the top picture and the top one in the bottom pucture, and how would you tell them apart when buying? They look the same visually. How long should the right length one be as I have one on the way to me.

My manual car has a slight issue that the driver side rear drum is always slower to lock than the passenger side, and when looking at this version of the hb mod, it looks much better designed in terms of equalising forces between the 2 wheels as it looks able to swivel more than the old design.

Thought i might give it a try soon.

Hi David
There is no difference only that the top photo as the same R53 cable and equaliser with a belt and braces fitted by me ie two hole drilled and a split pin inserted either side of the cable.

This was to settle a very tiny niggle I had in my mind a (what if ) thought, the equaliser was to open up at the part where the front cable in inserted through the equaliser so in reality a bit of OTT scenario :D it is the bottom one that you need to steer clear of as it is to short in the cable length in my opinion form looking at it and measuring it, not in fact as I have not fitted one I have amended the script above the photo now :o

Hope I have been able to answer your question cheers Arctic.

PS good luck with the fitting take your time and it should go smoothly ;)

Thanks Steve,

I spotted one on ebay for £5 so took a chance for on it. It is one of the top picture ones but without the split pin mod. Now that i have finished refurbing the auto i plan to make a start on the manual so will be getting around to it during the next month hopefully. I have done both cars with the stainless shackle mod previously so can now do it a bit quicker than the first time i tried which took me most of a day. Second one took about an hour and a half, although the majority of that was getting the back seat back down!

Mine has arrived. Inspired by your split pin mod to stop it from spreading apart, i went the bolt route. Drilled a hole for a m5 bolt, tapped the bottom hole with m5 tap and a lock nut on the bottom for good measure. (Lost my tin of split pins!)

Attachment 50593

This compensator was only £5 from ebay and articulates around the centre pin much better. Thanks for bringing this idea to us, looks likely to be a real improvement for equalizing brake force properly.

Fitted the R53 compensator today, and immediately found why my stainless one hadnt been working properly, the stainless shackle was out of the two prongs that it should rest in. I think that this happened when i replaced my rear backplates a while ago, as i heard something twang as i was adjusting everything back then. I had assumed it was just the cable pulling in to tge backplate, but obviously not, and this explains why the stainless mod worked fine before i fitted the new plates but not after, as this problem basically eliminated all the articulation possible.

Anyway, the new one is now in, and i can hear both brakes applying evenly now so should prove to be a much better design.

The job went very smoothly, the only tricky bit being that lug that holds the front cable in to the handle, but by tapping on the end of the threaded rod it did bend it out of the way. To bend it back again once the new cable was in place i placed a small chisel just on the tunnel under where the lug is, then a large screwdriver to lever up on the lug to bend it back in place.

steve,

Do you want my old compensator? If you do please note that it still needs to be modified properly by you, because my shackle was a couple of mil too long. This might be what allowed it to spring out if the prongs when i did the back plates. I got round it by using a couple of extra washers under the nut, but im sure you will be wanting to make it to standard.

If you do want it, just pm me your address again, as i have deleted all my PM's and lost it.

HI David.
Yes please I will drop you a PM or email with my address, the R53 is a good alternative and as you say it give a smooth steady tension and equalises evenly, I have fitted several now they do take more time than the SSC one therefore I will only fit or help to fit one if a member asked me to help at the meet cheers Arctic ;)

It's in the post this morning. Ive not adjusted at the drums yet as ive just received some new disks to fit, so i will do it then, expecting a much better balance. I did notice as i fitted the R53 that the angle of articulation it tightened up at was beyond the angle the old design would ever have managed, so im sure it will perform better long term.

Steve,
Would I be correct in assuming that the O-ring is there to stop the cable end (square + round lugs) from sliding towards the plate thus disconnecting the cable?
Links to suppliers?

The o ring does appear to limit movement of the front cable so i suspect you are right. This compensator is a great improvement, and i suspect will be much more tolerant of poor adjustment at the hubs than the old version because it equalizes force between the wheels over a wider range of movement. I have not yet readjusted my hubs, but i can now feel that the force i am applying is going to both wheels evenly because you can hear them both start to squeal at the same time when you pull the brake on from a gentle roll downhill. Before, my passenger one applied first and a click later the driver side did.

Because my driver side is now applying properly again, during the course of the day my drum has been getting cleaned up through successive applications, and the brake is actually getting better as the day rolled on.

as arctic has said, it does take slightly longer to fit than the original stainless mod, but in my case it only extended the job by about 10 minutes so im not complaining.

As far as links to suppliers, got mine from ebay for £5 so just keep searching ebay until one comes up.

Even a new OEM compensator allowed 5mm of compensation between the two cables, which is perfectly adequate when the rear hubs are properly adjusted, but there were obvious cases where it simply wasn't enough. I often received returned compensators for refurb, where the pin had been twisted sideways, obvious evidence of the rear hubs being so far out of balance, that the metal had to bend to compensate.

I don't think now we have a ready made solution, it is worth my continuing to offer the modification service any longer. I have had to curtail the service recently due to my own personal circumstances (the death of my partner), but it is now not worth restarting the service.

Hi Ken
Sorry for not getting back right away been busy, yes you are correct in a way but from what I can see the lug could not come out/adrift as it would need to be turned 45 degrees before it can be released and taken out of the equaliser.

As you can see from the photo's below and I have added the belt and braces to the ones I have ;)

Reverse of the equaliser
http://i61.tinypic.com/2u5rvyv.jpg1

side view
http://i60.tinypic.com/2n1gmd5.jpg2

cable removed
http://i61.tinypic.com/210dstg.jpg3

showing the retaining ring & copper slip added
http://i60.tinypic.com/33lo2lv.jpg4

The cable as to be fitted through the side of the equaliser
http://i61.tinypic.com/2it38yx.jpg5

http://i60.tinypic.com/2pt4212.jpg6

Then pulled through to centre
http://i57.tinypic.com/30m98b8.jpg7

belt and braces with the split pin fitted ;)
http://i62.tinypic.com/o799o9.jpg8

http://i59.tinypic.com/dc7kzo.jpg9

I am still offering the SSC to members whom wish to fit one as they are just as good and are easier to fit, I do not and will not supply the R53 members would have to source their own the one I have are for the nano meets should a R75 owner ask for one to be fitted.

Arctic - many thanks for suggesting this, a MINI handbrake arrived yesterday and I replaced the stretched compensator on the LWB today. IMHO a much better design than the original (un)compensator.

For anyone contemplating this on a LWB/Limo/VDP, it's a worse job since the rear footwell carpet is bespoke and glued in place - carpet over semi-rigid backing over 6mm foam. The latter is the pig since it's the sort that disintegrates if you try to peel it, the other two layers can be peeled away individually or together.

It's far easier to go in from under the front seats - the bespoke carpet starts just at the under-seat air vent, and is held in place by the rear seat rail bolts - so remove both seats and peel the carpet from the front edge towards the back of the car. I tried peeling from the back forwards first, but gave up when I realised that the seats had to come out anyway ;)

Some shaky phone photos, driver's side showing the start of the peel back against the console:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&d=1439159191

and on the passenger side:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&d=1439159191

When you get to the compensator cover plate removal, you have to find the three mounting screws by feel, then trace the edge of the plate with a sharp knife to cut the foam. Easy once you've found the front corners and back edge by locating the screws!

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&d=1439159372

In total the job took four hours, and I'm familiar with working on the interior so wasn't fumbling around. In the end I removed both front seats, plus removed the four front securing screws for the centre console to allow for greater lift. TBH it was only laziness that stopped me taking the gearknob off and lifting the whole console out!

Having the passenger seat out made the job a whole lot easier - I could easily thread old & new compensator cables around/through the various obstacles. I have to do the same job on the estate and will go down this route for that one too.

Finally, one of these little Rolson ratchet screwdrivers was very handy for removing the two side screws of the centre console:

http://cpc.farnell.com/productimages...TL13684-40.jpg

I think you have hit the nail on the head Harry - if the system is set up correctly when fitted, then the compensator won't have much compensating to do.

And once set up correctly there isn't much in the way of wear to take into account, so it should stay that way.

Of the twisted ones you have seen, I wonder if it might be due to something seizing on one side as opposed to incorrect adjustment? :shrug:

Hi Mike
The 5mm of compensation was for the front cable, once this was used reached then the set up would need adjusting at the rear, the R53 system does not stretch therefore the ( 10mm ) adjustment on the front cable remains intact.

On the old OEM there was only 5mm as stated above with the R53 there is more equalising at the rear cables as you can see from the photo below.

The OEM chocolate mild steel one would only allow for a little equalisation then it would because of how it was made up start bending the bar off centre.

With the SSC and the R53 this could not happen as you can see in the photo's below, there is a little drawing graph of how the OEM one could equalise of centre before putting pressure on the top bar which also opened up so not really up to the job in my opinion.

The R53 is the solution I think Rover should have used, and certainly another alternative for members.

OEM & SSC
http://i61.tinypic.com/2po2v46.jpg1

With the R53 included
http://i60.tinypic.com/2dlq4xv.jpg2

http://i59.tinypic.com/2d8f1aw.jpg3

Arctic ;)

Steve,


I completely agree with you on this. if you have received my old "self modified" compensator back after i swapped to the R53 you will notice what i did wrong with it by using a slightly too long shackle. It allowed the shackle to pop out from the guide prongs when i was fitting new backplates and pulled up hard to pull the cable in to the plate. At the time i didnt know that this had happened, and just adjusted the hubs as normal and all was fine. The problem i had was there was absolutely no articulation in this state because the compensator was jammed off centre, so as soon as the shoes on the trailing wheel wore down a bit, the brake in that wheel stopped holding, and i was constantly re-adjusting.

When i just fitted the r53 last week i checked its position. I had not adjusted the hubs at this point because next week will be fitting new disks so plan to do it then.

You can imagine therefore that in this state, one wheel needs more movement of the cable than the other, but the point is in reference to your photos, the angle of the compensator was less than what the r53 can manage, but more than the stainless one could manage, hence I now have a great handbrake, even with badly adjusted hubs.

The R53 is simply more tolerant of adjustment and wear than the oem was, and as a genuine manufacturer part, you just feel better with it in there. It is puzzling why, when rover must have had this design in view, they opted for the chocolate one.

Great 'how to'. I'm doing rear discs/pads soon and want to replace the compensator at the same time (MOT in 6 weeks and it was advisory last time). Both links are for handbrake lever assemblies and as I prefer to buy new parts, do you know if there is/are part number(s) for the R53 cable and the yoke (or cable with yoke)?

Another little fact i haven't seen mentioned is the Mini R50 R52 and R53 fuel tank straps are the same as the R40/R41. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-O...item280062cae4

I wonder how many others may be the same? i know the door lock mechs are, can anyone add any others?

Hi John.
You should be able to get the part from link below cheers Arctic. ;)

http://www.bmminiparts.com/PartDetai...A-615FBDB34A3C

Do you mean they fit the 75/ZT?

When you compare the picture in ebay with the picture in jim jamiesons suspension overhaul thread the rover one looks flatter i the lengthways bars, the mini one looks like it has an indentation.

Yes that is what I've been told, comparing the eBay one to a picture of a new 75 one, they do look the same....

The mini tank capacity is much less according to the web, so i wouldnt have expected the depth to match the 75. To me it looks like the legs on one end are shorter, where if you look at jims picture they look the same. There is also a definite step on the straights, where jims are virtually flat.

I would love you to be right though as they are in stock and i could have one by the weekend, whereas the only other alternative is matt which are 2-3 weeks away. Its just that i have my exhaust off at the moment which would be an ideal time to replace them, but useless if it doesnt fit.

Hi Dan
Yes should be easier for the long wheel base, but as you say the fact they have glued the carpet to the compensator cover plate will hinder you quite a bit why would they do that :shrug: one of those Rover quirks no reason in our eyes but someone must have thought it a good idea at the time :duh: also anyone whom as their seats out for any reason this would be the very best tine to fit a R53 cheers Guys Arctic.

Yes I saw that first time I read the how-to (and very reasonable price if they're genuine/OEM) - but couldn't see the clevice. Now I've used the magnifier it's obvious.
Thanks for your trouble

Ok so I took one for the team here chaps. Bought one of the mini tank straps, as i felt the possibility deserved exploring, but I can now confirm they most certainly do not fit the R75. The lengthways straps are about 4 inches too short, and unlike the rover originals with the ribbing that they have it would not be very easy to extend them. My advice if you want new ones is to purchase from Matt.

If anyone has a mini and would like a tank strap for it, please do let me know.

Thanks for your efforts and confirmation David, apologies for causing you hassle :(

I will more than likely be removing mine for derusting and painting, so if i do i will try and post a side by side picture to show the differences.

The design is so similar you would think they could have been designed by the same guy, just way too short. The other differences could have been worked around.

R53
 

just to get back on track I fitted a R53 for a local R75 owner late last week and found that the tag that is incorporated into the arch of the front handbrake mechanism had been broken off :eek: therefore we had to replace the front handbrake altogether, otherwise the cable would not hold into the channel.
Photo of the tag missing, not the actual one on his car but you get the picture :}
http://i62.tinypic.com/2hmmzoz.jpg

So an hours work turned into front seats out console out, and carpet lifted up so the front handbrake as an whole could be removed, this was last week today he came to work in a Rover 25 because the V6 had thrown it's belt and damaged the engine, mind he doe's not look after his cars he just drives them into the ground, he is a male nurse and seems never to always be in a rush.

I thought these would have been fitted more by members but this doe's not seem the case maybe die to the difficulty of fitting and taking longer to do than the SSC
http://i62.tinypic.com/24osyhi.jpg

Could a small hole drilled at the top of the channel not take a split pin with one leg bent under the cable to keep it retained, as an alternative to replacing the complete assy?

Hi David.
I sure that would work good idea, i would certainly try that if i ever see one that as been broken again :bowdown:as it would have to be a lot easier than removing the seats console etc :( Arctic

When i did mine i was nervous it might break off, so considered removing the complete assy to do under a bit more control on the bench, but in the end it bent back fine. Dont really think it would take many goes to snap off though, but the sure thing is that its never going to need doing again.

I may well be doing the second car once i finish the suspension work on the car with the R53 fitted, but the MOT on that one is looming so its taking priority, so this weekend it will also be getting its new disks to finish the job. It will then be R53 compensator plus new disks pads and shoes which is about as good as it gets. It is still working very well and i still didnt adjust the hubs, and thats a good few months now, demonstrating the extra flexibility the design can work around.

I replaced my stretched compensator with the mini one today - what a faff! Hopefully will last the life of the car! LOL

I wont repeat whats above but just add a few pointers...

I took the seats completely out of mine as I wanted to clean up the runners and carpet plus I do like lots of space to work in.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...pswbtpem1y.jpg


I also decided to cut the carpet. After giving it a lot of thought I cut a line from one of the pre existing holes but cut so it would be underneath the runner so completely invisible. Once I felt that I had gone far enough so the seat would hide the cut I cut upwards towards the tunnel.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psfn28dwj1.jpg


Here is the cut just before I put the seat back - as you can see the cut is hidden by the runner and the seat itself (when back in place)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps7uccokl1.jpg


Here's the carpet moved up out of the way

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psgohkd9to.jpg


I also removed the handbrake mechanism itself through the top of the tunnel. Theres 2 torx bolts accessed from top of tunnel and one at the side

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psdr1pvpto.jpg


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps6ypjazeh.jpg

Compensator out of the car and new mini one fitted

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psif6cofmz.jpg

Heres bending the tab back so I can pull the cable out

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psoahjhhnd.jpg

Heres it reassembled

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psl1q2ula2.jpg

Hope these few tips help! :-)

Did the job this weekend - hardest part was wrestling with the carpet!

But seriously, many,many thanks to Gary and Steve for coming up with this mod - my handbrake has never been better :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Obtained the handbrake assembly off BMMini (good service and not expensive - carriage put the final price up a bit) and fitted a few days after receipt (used the compensator exactly as received so no split pins or screws.
Your how-to was spot on, biggest problem (as you suggested) turned out to be feeding the cable into the handbrake quadrant and returning the tag to the 'closed' position (I used a 1/2"dia.x 9"L brass drift I had hanging about). Found things a bit easier by removing both front seats - sport seats on my Contemporary SE and the driver side completely blocks the mid-ships centre consol screw access; I needed to do a bit of soldering on the airbag wiring under the seat anyway so it was worth the extra trouble.
The handbrake operation is a huge improvement and I recommend this to anyone who hasn't already carried out a modification.
Once again, many thanks

Switched to the Mini part last week.

Wanted to adjust the handbrake two days ago. But didnt work out as planned.

First i checked the parts inside.
Looks ok so far. 30.000 km on the pads and disks.

I also grinded the pads and the inner part of the discs with 400 sandpaper.

But we didnt manage to adjust the handbrake to completly block the tires on 3 to 4 clicks.

The pads should have a good friction, because the values on the brake tester are very good. Just the clearence is to big. Needs a lot of clicks. I think 7 to 8 clicks.

Do you have any ideas?

If you have fully removed the handbrake shoes/springs/pins - for cleaning/lubricating the fulcrums etc. or fitted new shoes - you will need to 'centre' the shoes inside the drums on reassembly before trying to make final adjustments.
The rear wheels will both be off the ground when you do all this work and centering is best done by turning the roadwheels 'backwards' by hand and quickly applying the handbrake to stop them rotating (do this a couple of times on each wheel); the handbrake cables must first be approximately adjusted so the handbrake lever can effectively work the shoes onto the inside of the drum.
Now follow the standard adjusting procedure - slacken-off the handbrake nut until it is just at the end of the threaded portion of the front cable and then adjust each shoe using a screwdriver blade through a wheel bolt hole in the hub. Adjust until the shoe prevents the hub (firmly) from being rotated. Now, back-off the adjuster just ONE click - you should find that the hub can be rotate by hand but just a little resistance can be felt (and you should also be able to hear the shoe(s) lightly rubbing on the inside of the drum). Adjust both sides like this and then go back to the handbrake lever and tighten the nut on the threaded cable end until you can measure 20mm (not the standard 25mm) of thread showing.
Fit both road wheels (all bolts just hand tightened), rotate each wheel and apply the handbrake 3/4 times each side. Release the handbrake, rotate each wheel again by hand and you should not be able to hear any rubbing/the wheels rotate freely.
Check the handbrake again, it should now take just 3 clicks from 'off' to hard 'on' - if it's less than 3 clicks just back-off the handbrake lever nut a couple of full turns and all should be well. DON'T forget to tighten the wheel bolts to the recommended torque once the wheels are back on the road/before you drive the vehicle.
If you use the car every day, make a point of applying the handbrake as much as possible for 4-6 days (or for quick results test drive slowly [5-10mph] on a quiet road/car park, hit neutral and apply the handbrake to bring the car to a complete stop 3 or 4 times) - if the handbrake now takes 4-5 clicks, re-adjust the lever nut to 20mm of exposed thread.

Thank you very much!

Did the job again, just like you explained it.
I tried the handbrake on a ramp and adjusted it there.

Now its much better. 4 clicks and the car stands still.
But i still believe that the handbrake cable is a little bit strechty.

Impossible!

As has been repeatedly proven - The cables cannot stretch, they are far too hard to stretch. They can only snap under excessive load.

Hope someone could help with this query. One of the pictures is no longer visible in post 13, so I cannot be sure. It says 'the one not to buy', so I searched eBay for one shown in the rest of the pictures. But the one I received has a short compensator. However, it doesnt look like it can come spread (as per Arctic's belt and braces approach). The compensator moves very freely too.

My question is, can this be used? I cant upload my own images for some reason, but it is the same as this one. (overall length is 350 mm and the compensator starts at 30mm)

I am planning a strip out of my interior, seats and console will be out, but not for a month or two yet. So I cannot try or compare it, and if it doesnt work, complain and return.

I did try to get just the compensator, but the only one didnt have the nut, and was the same price. But I wanted to get prepared for when I do this.

(edit: was able to get photos uploaded)

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&d=1454458975

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...5&d=1454458986

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...6&d=1454459019

I am sorry to say you have purchased or been sent the one not to use/buy in post 13, they are to short.
http://i63.tinypic.com/fau3c6.jpg1

http://i63.tinypic.com/6qkwew.jpg2


The one you want is the one that is pictured throughout the thread, the one showed next to the SSC here in the photo below, they line you identically in measurement.
http://i65.tinypic.com/zldytz.jpg3

I have noticed that a few of my photo's are missing in my threads this is because tinypic had an hissyfit and also I am in the process of renewing all my pictures with the copyright marks as above, I have just not got round to doing this thread yet.

This is the one you need to purchase and again you will be hard pressed to purchase just the compensator and cable alone.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Mini-O...3D151763337982

The mine handbrake can be purchased from here also, as stated in the first post at the end of the how to.
http://www.bmminiparts.com/PartDetai...A-615FBDB34A3C

Thanks for that, I did read through your post, was just clinging to hope the tinypic picture was not the one I had ordered :(

The ebay link above is actually one I had in my basket on eBay, but went for the one I got, because the guy has a higher feedback rating.

I will send a message to see if he will swap out the compensator to save on postage.

(the BMmini parts site are showing out of stock, or I would have ordered there first)

Having done this, a few days ago, I have to take my hat off to you guys. I struggled with removing the Rover cable, and I had the console out!!! I gave up and removed the handbrake lever altogether. Once that was off, I could prise out the cable. I dont know how you did it with the console in!!!!:shrug::bowdown::bowdown:



http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&d=1458253983



Handbrake now at 3 clicks, thank you Arctic, and Borg Warner, for researching and doing this.

Does anyone know where to find the mini r53 alternative? The link posted earlier (bmminiparts) are out of stock.

Cheers.

Search on eBay, however, make sure it is the earlier version. The later version is too short. See previous posts in this thread.

Alternatively, try phoning bmminiparts ;)

May have found one on ebay :) seen the posts so im sure its the right one.

Cheers :)

Check with the seller first. I was pretty sure it was the correct one but turned out it wasn't.. He used an old picture and since it would fit a BMW mini, it wasn't misdescribed :( :mad:

There are a few on the bay at the moment, very hard to find without the Mechanism.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Mini-H...oAAOSw1ZBUvRbN

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-COOPE...EAAOSwHxVW69Z5

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-O...MAAOSwIwhWTKTY

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-COOPE...MAAOSwBahVddlN

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Mini-C...MAAOSwB4NWxl7j

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-COOPE...6cAAOSwy5ZXC9e~

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-O...cAAOSwf-VWUz55

Please make sure that the cable and compensator is provided within the sale before committing yourself to buying Arctic. ;)

Hmm, just as i set out to fit the r53 compensator to car#2 I noticed a lot of the photos in the how to have dissappeared. Now to see how good my memory is.

Hi David.
Yes in the process of changing over my photo's from one image system to another, and add the Arctic logo but you have a PM for a link to see the full how to ;)

Big thanks!
 

A very big thanks for sorting out the handbrake on our great cars!:bowdown:

I did the Mini R53 swap this weekend but didn't get to adjust the rear hubs due to pressing BBQ duties. :drool4:

So since I was locked out of the house this evening :duh: I had a go at the hub adjustments and I am completely amazed at how good the Rover 75 handbrake can be.

I used a pair of ratchet straps to hold up the centre console while I worked on the compensator swap. Only because I didn't have a lump of wood hanging around, they worked really well too. :D

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...2&d=1471902402

Now I just have to replace the rear passenger door my daughter and son-in-law 'modified' and she will be as good as new again!:D

I like that. Bit more expensive that the sawn down brush handle, but very inventive.

Luckily for me we have ratchet straps a-plenty. SWMBO gets annoyed sweeping the house with a stub of a broom handle :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:getmecoat:

Handbrake Mod R53
 

Pictures all replaced after some editing, so the members whom have been waiting you can now get stuck in. :D




PS the stainless steel Compensator is still available despite the rumour that seems to be going around on FB via certain people and members from here.

I have not stopped modifying the compensators for members, but as I am not on FB I will not send any out to FB owners whom try to get one via other members on any forum.

Therefore if you require one please contact me through PM here or another forum I am on only.

Thank you Steve :bowdown::}

I have pdf'd the thread's relevant parts and copied the OP to the How To here :cool:

With a link back to this thread:D

Bit of a "Holy Thread resurrection Batman", :D

But Steve can you confirm the Bmini link is for the complete handbrake assembly including the compensator cable?? seems way too cheap, and in any case the mini handbrake also a straight swap? or is that not possible?

I fear my issues are the cables into the plates at the rear as I've already 'fixed' my compensator many moons ago, but as I unable to carry out any work on the car at the moment due to 'Incapacity', I wanted to get the parts ready to replace as a matter of course to guarantee no issues, and once the MOT is through I might fit the R53 set up if I remove the seats etc as i could do with a replacement carpet really

Ref the rear cables, can anyone confirm that Rimmers are indeed selling genuine MGR Replacement cables? or are they actually a re-make? and inferior?
I think I need to source a set in case my Garage is unable to sort out the HB issues, and I've already had a report that the cable to plate area was extremely rusty and corroded :(

HI Nick
I doubt you will need new cables ? maybe back plates as they could be corroded, some members have added washer and other fixing to repair.

As for the Mini compensator click the link below :}
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...20#post2462820

Just fitted the mini compensator to a V8 ;)

Please note that owing to the differences in the transmission tunnel there is a seam with a thick layer of seam sealant under the handbrake quadrant leaving only about 2-3mm so it can be almost impossible to fold back the tab in order to remove the front cable and replace with the new one. If this is the case it was found that removal of the handbrake leaver was the only way the cable could be replaced ;)

Russ

Hi Russ.
Interesting I have not done a V8 with a M53 yet, even though quite a few come to the nano meets, by the sound of it not going to be in to much of a rush to do one either, :D thank you for posting your findings every little is important :bowdown: Arctic

Done it today
 

Done the R53 mod today, two of us on it, 2.5 hours start to finish and that was whipping out both front seats, gave seats and carpets a good clean too.
Many thanks for the excellent "how to" wouldn't have tackled it without it.
Handbrake is fantastic now, difference is night and day.
I obviously have the old compensator and cable left, would be a shame to throw it out, if it is any good to you, or anyone else to modify, pm me with your address and I will stick it in the post.

Cheers

Jim ...... :bowdown:

HI Jim.
Yes please I will take the cable and compensator from they are always useful.

The fitting is somewhat more difficult than the SSC, it can be done without removing the seats but as you say is not easy, I have managed to fit one in about 40 minutes with everything going smooth, I have not fitted as many as the SSC.

I suppose if you were fitting them regular it would be come more easy thank you for your feedback it is most appreciated Arctic ;)

BMW Mini R53 original spare parts
 

Hi everyone

I am new to the forum, I do own a ZT 190 for a little more than 7 years now and I am living in Switzerland. I've done pretty much in DIY, but this is the first time I am really struggling. As you might expect I am also suffering from a poor handbrake and read through all the very helpful posts.

As I did not find a cable and compensator at the breakers or the internet I went to BMW Mini to get a new R53 handbrake (alltogether) with the part nr. 34 40 6774814. The pictures in the parts catalogue (from BMW) did match with the photos from Arctic and several other posts.

I then compared the two cables, they somehow changed the length (it's shorter now) and the form of the compensator. The nut ist not 13mm socket anymore, 10mm now. So there must have been a design change, they told it is all the same for all the mini up to now.

Is there another part number which will fit eventually? Could someone provide the correct design as it seems that I am not able to get it through BMW anymore.

Appreciate any help, thanks!
Regards
Chris

I've taken a few photos:

https://ibb.co/ewYv3w
https://ibb.co/g1rF3w
https://ibb.co/cA9eVb
https://ibb.co/iazPwG

HI Chris.
The handbrake you have been sent or purchased is for the later mini after 2005 what you need is the one that fits R50/52/53/ which fits up to 2005, as in the photo's on the how to thread, I have noticed quite a few members are ordering the wrong part.
(Mini BMW part number 34 40 6763063)
Below are a couple of photo's of the R53 and the stainless steel Compensator next to each other. Arctic

What you need
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bmw-Mini-M...oAAOSw-CpX9mQA

What to avoid
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-R50-R52-R53-R56-R57-R58-R59-HANDBRAKE-LEVER-GENUINE-2000-2013-6774814-/182720815449?hash=item2a8b026159:g:DkoAAOSwEK9XAo6 7

PS
The Stainless Steel Compensators are still available to all members far and wide ;) I also have a couple of Mini R53 left that have not been used at the nano meets.

Hi Arctic

Thanks alot. That's what I expected...I will return it. They told me they are all the same for all the models...they must be mistaking (but they should know best I guess...:duh:)

Would you send over a R53 or stainless steel compensator to Switzerland? You just can't buy them without the lever over here. How much would you take?

Thanks again...
have a nice evening,
Cheers Chris

HI Chris
Drop me a PM and we will get you sorted out with either cheers Arctic ;)

Is it really that much easier taking the two front seats out?

I'd prefer that to damaging the underside of my carpet foam by forcing it with bits of wood....

I've previously done a compensator from underneath, not an experience I particularly enjoyed. The access hole is so small its like a Crystal Maze for midgets.

Im assuming that if you remove both your front seats, the carpet does not have to be cut anywhere and the whole lot just lifts?

You don't have to cut the carpet if you leave the seats in place. :}

I’ve done it twice without removing the seats or cutting the carpet :D
First time took ages but second time was a breeze
Regards
Chris

Hi Ross
I doubt it would be any easier lifting the carpet at the rear where the compensator resides as you would still have the console in place, all it would mean that the job would take much longer, and you may have the added burden of sorting out the air bag connectors after being disturbed.

I doubt much damage would be cause by using wooden props to help keep the carpet up and out of the way for 30 minutes, much more damage is caused by water under the carpet that's for sure.

The carpet does not have to be cut, but I prefer just to make a slight
incision in the piece of carpet just under the rear of the console as this aids the removal of the front cable and the black clip from the compensator, this is not seen once the console is back in place after the operation :D

Morning everyone,

I need to do this mod before the MOT next month as it was an advisory last year. All the photos in the first post seem to have vanished - is there still a PDF available with all the images in?

If not I'll try and remember to take some when I attempt the job!

Hi Matt.
All the photo's are present and I doubt they will vanish as I do not use the dreaded PB for my photo's it must be your browser, or your lap top graphics card? can you see this photo' below


Here is the link to how to fit the compensator maybe you have to be subscribed to see the photo's it only costs £10 Arctic.

Well, now I look like a right idiot!

Photos work perfectly on my phone, I'll blame the archaic laptop.

Thanks Arctic, I'll get myself a Mini compensator ordered.

Matt it now seems your first post as now come true PB have bought (Tinypic ) and closed it down so yes in fact they are now missing :mad:

Aw man just my luck.:duh: I had this bookmarked a while back and ready to do this job this weekend. Do you you have another way of providing these as they were very useful pointers in your excellent guide?


Scott.

HI Scott.
Yes sorry PB have destroyed all of my how to posts, it will be sometime yet before I can get round to rectifying these threads I am afraid.

You can follow the SSC thread though, but with the Mini53 its easier to remove the passenger seat to gain access to the metal tag on the handbrake which will need bending outwards then when the cable as been fitted bend it back into position

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...46&postcount=2

Shame this has happened especially the amount of work it takes you to create these posts. Many thanks for the link. I'll give this a go. :}

You could make a pdf of that How To using Chrome - all 55 pics and all text in a 13 page document.

Photo Bucket Theft
 

Bumping up so to remind me this is another how to that needs sorting out :mad:

Would you like another------------------




BUMP.----------:shocked:

Pdf
 

PDF's make the best argument for archiving articles etc.
The text and its formatting, all images (compressed within the file ready to be expanded to normal again when viewing).
Every element large or small is saved within a single file which can be read on any network.

My 2cents
:xmas-smiley-008::icon_lol:

Bump
 

Did this ever get updated with photos?

I wanted to check that I get the right handbrake compensator while my carpets are out drying.

HI Dave.
You want this type below, i have a couple left, drop me a PM if you would like one.

https://i.imgur.com/hHLyNQ2l.jpg1

The one you do not want, they fit but with really hard effort and then not always, so best to steer clear.
https://i.imgur.com/4ronsDFl.jpg2

Hi Steve

I think I may have sourced one locally, but if not, I’ll PM you.

Dave

Hi,

Are any of these available?

Thanks
David

Hi David
You have a PM .

For those looking for the pictures to go with Arctic's excellent How-to.
I stumbled across this version of the how-to online, and it still has pictures attached.
Arctic, If for any reason you don't want this up here let me know and I will remove it. :}
https://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/rove...zHplRCPUuQKIhg

Hi Richard.
No it's ok leave it posted up, it is in fact the how to the stainless steel compensator, the R53 how it is basically the same up to a point, but you have to remove the whole unit including the cable.

It is easier to remove the passenger seat to gain access when fitting the R53 mini compensator, hopefully this year i can do another how to for it.

The above link is also on here anyway in the members contribution section click the link below. ;) cheers Arctic.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=152526

I raised my local scrappy and got 4 of the correct ones and 1 of the bad ones 😂

Steve have you tried fitting the compensator from underneath the car? I was swapping a Mini compensator and cable for an old stretched one on a car being scrapped so thought I'd give it a go. It didn't have a middle heat shield so it was just a case of removing the large rubber grommet under the compensator, the small grommet next to it and the cassette storage bin under the centre armrest.

Bit tricky but do-able.

Hi Mike.
Yes i tried back in 2011-12 but i found it nigh on impossible with my sausage fingers, also lying on your back under a car makes it even more uncomfortable, so carried on doing it the way in the thread above ;)