***Carefully as the metal bracket is very sharp in places***

The central clip should slide down with the door card removed, in situe the door card needs unclipping from around the perimeter and then firmly nudged upward to remove from the central clip.

That's fairly standard condition for many of the rear inner window trims on our cars now. Thankfully, corrosion generally seems to be contained to the trim itself and a couple of the steel clips holding it to the door - I believe new steel clips for the trim are available from Rimmers (should you find a decent replacement trim). The trim and the clips pull up from the door - shouldn't be too difficult, but care and a pair of long-nose pliers will help.

Too late to be telling you now :getmecoat: but when one releases all the outer clips from a door card, the next step is to simultaneously lift the door card UP and out. This will let you remove the door card without taking the riveted steel clip away from the door itself. The plastic clip on the door card can be removed by sliding it down (or up) from the steel plate it's attached to on the rear of the door card. Long-nose pliers again will let you depress the two sides of the steel riveted clip to facilitate removal of the plastic clip therefrom. Once separated, you need to get the steel clip re-riveted to the door and the plastic clip refitted to the steel plate (on door card) before refitting the door card.

Red clips are not for the door card. Get a handful of the big white clips, a few of the grey clips and one white fir tree (multi-layered) clip - this one fits at the top rear-most area of the door card.

I'll see if I can get some pics to help..


Cheers,
Karl.

Here's some pics that might help explain the thing..


Cheers,
Karl.

Thanks such a lot. I thought that the grey ones and the fir tree were "rogue" but it looks like it was all original! That's soooo helpful.

I have all the clips, none lost or broken apart that the fir tree is a bit sad. I thought I'd just fit new ones but not now.

So much for the daft Haynes manual. I did try with the long nose pliers before posting but no joy. I've also managed to get the button out of the little socket in the lock.

I was just about to order some yellow clips for the kick plates as they're all off except one, what was on before was a right mismatch of inadequate stuff.

I'll fix the servo for the central locking (!) before putting the doorcard back. Currently the only one working is front passenger so your guidance on the removal of the doorcard will be really useful for the rear offside door.

JohnnyBG

Would a carbon fibre replacement work? It wouldn't oxidise.

That said, when aluminium corrodes the oxide normally protects the base metal. If the corrosion is increasing, perhaps something is rubbing the oxide away on a regular basis. Could it be occurring when the window is moved or the door opened or closed?

mine has corroded totally to powder over the quarterlight area and is perfect for the area against the moving part of the glass .I suspect water somehow penetrates the outer seal for the quarterlight or is channeled there by the design of the trim. Its got two rubber blades below the trim capping that look like they might be guilty of doing this. Wind pressure as the car moves would direct water towards this area. One rear trim strip would provide two shortened replacements if I could source one!!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...4AAOSwYHpgA1XJ

One rear tourer inner waist rail on e bay - looks decent.

I contacted DMGRS and they said they found new old stock. The batch was not remade.

when looked at closely you can see the ali blade is pretty well on the way out. I dont mind getting used parts for some areas but I think I can come up with a better solution. the section below the quarterlight doesnt need the same profile as the moving glass for obvious reasons . Trawling through makers of rubber seals till I find something suitable.

Any luck? Kev