Best lifting height for subframe change?
A quick question for anyone who has taken the rear subframe off. What is the ideal height to raise the car to for reasonable access? (Measured from sill to ground)
My sill is approx 170mm off the ground when the car is on its wheels. I'll be sitting the car on timber blocks. |
When i stripped my subframe and all arms out earlier this year, it was sitting on axle stands with a fence post across the width of the car for extra support. in all probably about 12-14in of the ground. A trolley jack helped lower the frame once free.
Quite a straight forward task but made awkward in my case by well rusted bolts/nuts etc on upper arms. A tin of wd40 or the better US version (forgot the name) is essential to soak for a few days prior to loosening bolts. probably would be easier now i have an impact gun!! Good luck. |
Did you have all four wheels off the ground (four axle stands) or just the rear two?
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just rear two raised with concrete blocks infront of front wheels.
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As Smudge says, axle stands were enough. The yellow set are approximately 14 inches -note they are not extended, and located on the jacking pads on the sill. The red ones are a slightly shorter pair I have had for decades. These were used to support the trailing arms and hubs whilst working disconnected from the arms, and left overnight, with bungee cords used to tie up the exhaust too. I did mine over a week, as I was cleaning and painting the bottom with underseal. if you are planning on other jobs whilst changing the frame, think of other components, and any support they may need. In my case it was the trailing arms and exhaust.
Before https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1563716587 during the change (you can see the old subframe with arms lying below the car). https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1563716538 |
Thanks Alan - those pics are a great help. :bowdown:
The thing I was worried about was lifting the rear end on its own and putting too much stress on the forward edge of the rear jacking points (because the front end is still on the ground) - but I see you got away with it. Those axle stands clearly give a decent amount of height to get to the rear subframe. I've got a good pair of stands but I'm planning on using wood blocks instead, with jacking pads at the top. I'll be replacing all of these with new parts: Subframe Trailing arms Toe adjuster brackets Upper & lower arms Hubs Discs & backplates Exhaust centre & rear sections Fuel tank carrier (new one is stainless steel) Dampers Springs Brake hoses (not sure about calipers yet) Btw, did you take the bumper off just to give better access or were you sorting something else out? That red trolley jack looks the part - which one is it? (I need a new one!) |
Make sure the steering lock is engaged before lifting the rear from the central jacking point - if not there is a risk of the car slewing off the jack if something goes wrong. :getmecoat:
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The jack came from Lidl, around £70 or 80. I am convinced it is a copy of another branded one. SGS do the same one HERE (again it will be a copy or 'chinese made with your logo on it' type, going by the toolbox I have had from them, compare THIS and THIS and THIS ;),). Like the tool boxes, the jack is more than adequate for the home user, but it does need bled quite frequently though (I did recently replace the oil which seemed to have helped, I suspect I lost a little too much oil when I bled it incorrectly the first time - which was my fault of course). It doesnt lift the rear from the central jacking point by the way, in fact it only just about reaches the central point lol) |
Here’s how high I put our stars when changing the rear subframe assy.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0f5d451002.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...466a518e81.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The wheels I would always put under the car as a safety feature as they can't be crushed if the car falls for any reason. Better than a nasty taste in your mouth.--:eek::eek::eek:https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1563716587
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