Mg zt rear wheel hun nut not moving after garage used thredlocker
 

Hi does anyone know of anyone who can get a overtighned to much thredlocker rear wheel bearing hub nut of to change a wheel bearing in neath seven sisters area car is now off road because a garage has overtighned the nut and used thredlocker I am thinking of getting rid of my mg zt I have tried for days to release it broke 2 breaker bars it will not budge:mad:

Heat it up with a blowtorch if they have used Loctite.

Not been that unlucky to be faced with threadlocked hub nut to date, however, like you have lost a number of 1/2" drive braker bars due to nuts not yielding.
Now use a 3/4" drive version and also a scaffold tube over the top of the bar.
Also worth checking that the nut is un-staked before attempting a loostening technique.
The last hub bearing I chnged last week, the nut spun off quite easily using my nut gun, but the hub bearing had collapsed and the inner race had siezed to the spindle, so 3/4 of the removal went ok, that last part required the mini grinder and hammer with chisel to remove the remainer part.
My advice is as above, but be ready for more issues especially if the bearing has got hot/noisey as the inner race ring may well be the same as my last one I replaced.
Also, after unstaking this nut, maybe try borrowing a decent electric nut gun, they usually yield, unless damaged threads have locked the nut solid.

Good luck.

If you can borrow a torque multiplier it should shift it and with surprisingly little effort.


I wonder why they thought they needed threadlock ?


Did they re-use the old nut ?


If an old nut has to be used in desperation, swap the nuts over o/s to n/s and in 99% of the time you have a fresh staking area.

Mg zt hub nut
 

Yes they reused the old hub nut but I dont thick they should have used loctite making it impossible for anyone to get it off;)

As a last resort try a commercial vehicle workshop.

:wot:

Hi Christopher,

Please do check that the staking has been released fully as above. I recently removed the front driveshaft nut (350 Nm) easily using an appropriate tool. The rear hub nut's torque is lower than that at 210 Nm. The garage may have exceeded that figure but I doubt that threadlocking compound alone is responsible.

Due to the staking, the original nut should not have been re-used. The staking process can distort the nut's thread with the risk of damage to the shaft's thread if re-used. I suspect that is why you've broken two of your breaker bars.

Simon

Or add a thin washer.;)

It's not recommended to add a washer in such a critical situation or location where the manufacturer of the vehicle doesn't fit one.


What type of washer ?


Any old washer in the spare bits box, or one of a specific material and hardness ?