V6 not starting Monday, but starts today!
 

Hi all,

I've had a spot of bother with my 2002 2.5V6 Con. SE auto.

On Monday

1. car has over half a talk of fuel
2. drove a few miles to work
3. parked up at 8:30am
4. tried to start car at 9am - would not start (lots of tries!)
5. tried again at 4pm - would not start
6. start ignoring the car

On Wednesday

1. stop ignoring the car
2. tried to start car at 11:30am - started
3. went for short drive to help keep battery charged
4. turned engine off
5. waited a minute
6. tried to start car - started
7. ignored car until 5.30pm
8. tried to start car - started, so drove home

I need to drive to work tomorrow... Will it start?!

I'm worried. What went wrong? How can I trust it to start?

I've only had it since June, but it's been driven plenty (long and short trips), and never had a problem. Last Saturday, I used it for three or four short trips, and it behaved itself perfectly.

Is there a list of things I should check out?

I've checked the plenum area, which is still dry (I checked it when I first got the car too).

I also lifted the rear seat and checked for the FOC. Turns out my filter is the older double-handle type (has August 2001 written nearby). So i believe i don't need a FOC, as I shouldn't suffer from FFS.

Any suggestions are welcome.


Cheers,
Richard.

To save a lot of guess work and frustration I’d get a code reader on it and see what, if anything, comes up. You don’t need anything special, any generic one will do. If you don’t have one and use a garage it might be advisable to check the fuel pressure too - only takes 5 mins.

Correct, if you have the early type filter no clip is needed.

Regards

Have you recently purchased a copy of The boom town rats greatest hits? :D

You don't say in your post whether the engine cranked or not when it wouldn't start. If it cranked then I had a similar problem three years ago after trying to start my 2001 2.5 SE auto from cold while in 'P'. Engine cranked but refused to start. Eventually, after shifting back and forth between 'N' and then 'P' (this may or may not have been the problem) and cranking it on and off for over 15 minutes or so, it ever so sloooowwllly began to start. I had to keep it going on the starter motor until it began to run under its own steam. But it was a good 10 minutes or so later before the engine was running normally. It hasn't happened since! On reflection, the most likely explanation was ice somewhere in the fuel line (or some other sensitive area) that gradually melted as I cranked the engine. It had been a very wet run home the day before followed by overnight frost. However, I now move from park to neutral before cranking just in case it was caused by a mechano-electrical fault in the gear selector's engine immobiliser switch. As I said, it has not recurred since.

There is a small wire on the starter motor, pull it off and on a few times to make a better contact.

Cheers chaps. It's been OK today (five starts!).

Good point on the code reader, I'll have a look, as I have a basic OBD-II unit somewhere, which I once used on my ZS and R25. I might have to clear everything and then see if anything is logged going forward.

I should have considered the starter too, as I once had a similar issue with the same wire on my R25. However, the sound when I turned the key suggested to me that the starter was doing its thing... it's just that the engine didn't run.

I am also tempted to leave it in neutral for a bit. Funny you should mention cold weather, as it occurred to me that it has been colder recently (as well as very wet!).

And now I have a new problem: I cannot re-fit the rear seat bench. I've pulled the belt sockets through the holes and got the seat lined up, but no matter how hard I try to whack/kick it down, it doesn't 'clip in', and is now just floating around. Is there a special knack? Searching the forum suggests it isn't easy. :(

Be interesting to see what the code reader flashes-up ...

Rear seat if you've got the rear parts hooked in place, the front ones are basically push down - position yourself on the forward edge, either the right hand or left hand side raise your backside 6 inches up and let your body weight crash down. Works for me ...

Regards

Ah, so you have to hook in the rear first? I didn't realise! I am not even sure how I yanked it out at the back - I just sort of yanked it. I will see if I can shine a torch in and see how the rear hooks in.

You could hoof up the A19 at the weekend and I'll T4 the car for you........as an aside in thirteen years, I've encountered five duff EMS2000 ECM, and all with the same fault ;)

In answer to the question about belts, you could use Rovetec in Stockton for the belt change, and have no change from £800, or take a relaxed trip back from Dave in Fencehouses and have the job done for less than £500.

Dave is a former MGR master tech, and well versed with the KV6 ;)

Brian :D

That is the best free offer you will ever get from a man or a woman :eek::D:getmecoat: