Bonnet Cable Query/Advice please
I opened the bonnet on my ZT yesterday but was more difficult than normal.
The bonnet pull/lever in the car has always stood out a little compared with the one in my 75 Tourer which is flush in the housing, and always seemed a little "slack"in comparison. Yesterday my normal gentle pull did nothing, but a second even more gentle tug opened the bonnet as normal, as though a cable had stretched. So, while I'm not planning to pull the bonnet more than normal, is this a clue that one or more parts of the pull system is failing and a replacement needed? Any advice welcomed-thanks in advance Kevin |
I doubt a steel cable would stretch:cool: I would suggest slackening the 2 bolts either side of the slam panel locating holes a little, and lubricating the 1/2 moon catches for starters.:cool:
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Not the cable stretching but could be the cable coming out of the lock mechanism itself, after my little bump the bonnet was more difficult to open and after a good tug ,2 clicks could be heard when it released.
After I removed the slam panel I had a look and one of the plastic ends on the cable was damaged and had started to pull out of the lock. As a quick fix whilst waiting for new locks and cables I made sure that the little half moon was in the open position and tightened the 2 bolts up so it couldn't move. This obviously means you only have one lock working and is not recommended but it was that or being unable to open the bonnet Stan |
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Remove the latch to the bench and give it a bath in Gunk, assisted with a good brushing. Rinse it, allow to dry and re-lubricate. I'd recommend Morris Lubricants' K99 which is a water resistant grease designed for marine stern glands. :D I've just bought a tub! ;) I'm confident that this will solve your problem as it was effective for me more than a couple of years ago. There's no need to buy any replacement parts. Simon :} |
When mine started acting up, regreasing catches didn’t help. It was only when I removed the cables that I noticed that on one section the drivers side cable had rubbed through the sheath and had started fraying. I’m glad I removed the cable to check, and subsequently replace the cable, as I had to open & shut the bonnet quite a lot after that, for various reasons!
Nothing worse than having a problem and not being able to get to it. Best advice would be to strip out the cables and latches for inspection, and hopefully a re-grease is all that’s needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Underneath the bonnet on the right hand side inner wing is a little box which is where the single cable divides into two , Remove and check the condition of this as it has been known to to cause problems , Check the outer cables are located correctly in the housing as have seen them where the outer cable has pulled out the locator Once removed this gives you access to manually check your cables for operation. Your two latch cables can be pulled with plyers to check the operation without removing them. As others have said , often' the sign of a slack cable is latches not returning fully Obviously it will be evident if any thing seized up |
Thanks all for the responses.
Some helpful thoughts on finding the problem-will investigate further when the rain stops! Regards Kevin |
As Simon has said, plus, before attaching the cables, hold them up in the air and run some WD40 down them.Makes a hell of a difference. And while doing them, if you have a petrol vehicle, do the same with the accelerator cable. You will be surprised how your right foot only has to ‘twitch’ and you are well away.
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I had similar, and found the jacket of the cable had deformed and was 'holding' the cable slightly.
We have a full range of bonnet cables and latches at well below RRP here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/search?type=...q=bonnet+cable |
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