Rounded Bolt Heads !
 

I am trying to remove the rear caliper carrier but the two 13mm bolt heads are nasty and rounded and a hex socket will not grip. Does anyone have any tips to get them out ? before i resort to drastic action ! Thanks.

Get yourself a set of Irwin's bolt removers 😎

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Not familiar with them but they sound useful, i will google them now, many thanks.

Yes they can be a real pain when they corrode it's not helped by the lack of room to get some sockets in.
If they're not too bad I use a 1/2" hex socket instead as it's a tighter fit than 13mm ;)

Russ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403480398...kAAOSwrlliDiD1


I have several different rounded off nut/bolts sockets.

https://i.imgur.com/HlLyHJll.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/1czRSMsl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/yonqLp0l.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/8N2HrmUl.jpg4

Thanks Russ i will try a 1/2" socket in the morning. That is quite a collection there Arctic, I am surprised at myself not already owning some of these considering i have been restoring classic cars for the last 30 years . I do sometimes weld a big nut over a damaged one but i didnt really want to resort to that on the 75 as it seems a bit too brutal on such a lovely car ! I'll save that for my Ferguson tractors ! :}

I have the same problem, bolt heads totally rounded. Garage have had really good go at trying to get off - heating, bolt removers the lot. Not going to budge, bit drastic but does this mean it’s the trailing arm off, and/or does the rear hub carrier (which I assume the brake carriers bolt on to) come apart? If not then it’s a replacement arm (extreme for 2 x 13mm bolts)!

First thing to do is get a drift and hammer and give the bolt heads a good belting. That helps with loosening any rust build up. As mentioned, hammer on a smaller metric or imperial socket if you can, or first file the edges of the bolt head down a bit until a socket fits.

Often, if you weld a bigger nut on then the heat transfer during the welding will break the corrosion, and once the bolt is cold it will move more easily.

And lastly try using freezing penetrating spray on the bolt - even if it can't penetrate the threads it might cool the bolt down enough to shrink it a tad and assist with it starting to move.

A lot of useful tips here filed away for future use.:bowdown:

I would agree with Russ. From past experience, a metal file (or use a little dremel kit if you have one) to reinstate flats and ensure a good fit between either a smaller 6 sided socket or flare spanner.

There certainly isn't a great deal of access, and it will take a decent amount of time and patience, but most likely less time and cost that removing the trailing arm I would have thought.