How to change brake discs and pads?
 

Don't laugh :o but is there a good how to anywhere for replacing the brake discs and pads all round on a 75 v6? I've never actually changed discs and pads before, never trusted myself in case I get it wrong and the car don't stop :o

Looks straight forward enough, but just wanted to check if there is a really good how to I can follow ?

Cheers :)

All in the "How To" forum;):}

the how-to's on here for the brakes are not the easiest to follow (no disrespect ;)) - i think i looked at the Haynes before doing my rear discs/pads.

it's an easy enough job - but it's nice to know what to expect before tackling these things - especially with brakes :D

I found a vid showing the process (on a 75) - i'm sure i done things slightly different to these guys (r.e removing the caliper etc..) but it's good for a visualisation of the task :}


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZiC1nwpHbM


Paul.

I have quite a few photo's on the subject just never got round to doing the how to, but one little bit of advise make sure you have a 7mm Allen key ;) and use good quality 6 sided 13mm and 15mm ring spanners or sockets.

You will also need a 5o torx, some cable ties, to hold the caliper up and out of the way while changing the discs and pads clean the sliders, brake shoes and back plates while you have the rear disc drum off.

If I get time over the next few days I will try and load up the pics for you, but I am sure an how to as been done already. Arctic

If you were closer I have all the tools you need.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

string instead of a cable tie I think would be better. easier to undo the string.

macafee2

or bungee cord ;)

Rick, dont get too worried its very easy....

Hardest part is pushing the calipers back, make sure you take the lid off your reservoir and make sure no fluid spills out.
A big pair of eagle beaks will do if you dont have a wind back tool, make sure you grease the sliders with copper grease so they have less chance of seizing up in the future.
As with any calipers that seize up 80% of the time its the sliders and not the main piston(s)

Rick, this was one of the first jobs I did.

New pads all round and new rear discs. I used Haynes for instructions and no special tools ( eg caliper winders).

I found it fairly straight forward. The only iffy bit was resetting the handbrake. That seemed to take an age...far too fiddly for me.

Based on recent experience with my car, I would recommend cracking the bleed nipple before pushing the piston back, rather than forcing old fluid back up through the ABS module into the master cylinder - this can give rise to spongy or sinking pedal syndrome, that will need a T4 bleed to sort out. The Haynes and official Rover manuals recommend this method.

Good luck -let us know how you get on

Pete