Diesel Cooler leak
 

As the title, I have a diesel leak around the cooler somewhere:shrug:

Simple question(s) to start with:
If I remove the complete cooler from the car, will the remaining connections on the car leak?
If this is the case, whats the best way to stop them leaking?

I've seen a 'new' cooler on ebay (£150+p&p) is that a good price? Is it worth having one to do a simple sway over, then look to repair the old one?

SteveN

HI Steve.
It is usually one of the hoses leaking or the valve, which you can replace with one from a Freelander 1 TD4 with the same engine, it resides in the engine bay on the FL1 so does not get damaged.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402365807439

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402298551190

You should be able to takes the hoses off and not lose to much fuel, same for the valve.




Few links below to read.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=172055

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=206832

Thanks Steve,

I stuck my head under the car last night and everything is covered in diesel, hence my thoughts on pulling the cooler out completely to work on it.
Also I suffer badly with diesel fumes, they make me physically sick :eek: (obvious then that I would have a diesel car!!!:duh: )


Thanks for the links.


PS. I assume that as this is in the return line to the tank, any air that gets in during the repair will subsequently clear to the tank when the car is next started?

To ascetrtain the likely cause of the problem, it is best practice to fully clean the rear facing area of the cooler using brake cleaner spray, a tin of this should be enough - before doing this, I would place a container beneath the cooler as there will be plenty of fluid dripping off. After everything has dried off, make checks to the hoses and their attachments as I have had a few hoses to replace of visiting cars, if they all appear to be ok and the metal pipework is sound, the most likely cause would be the plastic valve body, which usually can be found on a impossible bracket to remove from. What happens is the securing bolts suffer with corrosion which expands the bolt material beyond the abilities of the plastic valve body that they pass through, this in turn fractures the casing and allows the leaks. As Arctic states the Freelander2 has the same valve, but in a better location, and unlikely to find one that has defects. The replacement of the valve is fairly easy to do apart from detatching it from the rotten bracketry, there will be fuel losses but you could consider changing one pipe at a time to minimise exposure to the reaction you suffer with when in contact with raw fuel.

Can anyone confirm if this is the correct cooler for the Facelift 75's please?
https://serving.photos.photobox.com/...aadb533563.jpg
sorry about the image size

I can find nothing on Rimmers apart from its for a Range Rover:shrug:

It look to be ok so does this one below.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204031279305

Spray your with engine gunk cleaner, and then jet wash it off and you should find the leaking hose most of the time it's the end of the hoses that have flared with age, you can trim them and refit with a good jubilee clip.

Hi Steve


Thanks for the link, but that one is the 4 hose version, whereas mine is the 2 hose variety,


This one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354010191752

Just been out and taken a picture of my cooler


https://serving.photos.photobox.com/...339014ab6c.jpg

I wonder if the leak is coming from the side nearest the tank?
Also the plastic valve is not wet as I would expect.


SteveN

Hi Steve.
I was in the thought of mind that you just remove the joint splitter for the hose and rig it up as a two hose one? i could be wrong.

https://i.imgur.com/ZTKIw2Hl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/WNdLFi3l.jpg2

Steve give it a good clean and let the rabbit see the head lights so to speak :D