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Old 20th December 2014, 16:44   #4
EastPete
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti

Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ramsey, Cambs
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Well, I did my hydramount this afternoon - this guide was very useful.

One issue on my car was that there was a black metal block welded onto the black bracket that goes over the top of the mount, that prevented access to the 18mm nut on top of the hydramount - what a bummer ! See picture below - this block had a yellow blob painted on it. I thought I could remove bolt C and get to remove the bracket to get at the nut, but no the bolt is too long to clear the inner wing when you try to withdraw it. So, I had to undo the fixings for the steel pipework that runs above the bracket (8mm bolts on the mounting on the inner wing, and brackets on the slam panel), to move the pipes slightly so that the bracket can be swung upwards after loosening bolt C, to allow access to the hydramount nut.

Otherwise, a fairly straightforward job. I squirted some releasing fluid round the mount half an hour before I started, and it came undone with a few taps of a large screwdriver/hammer on metal cut outs. When putting the new mount back in the metal baseplate, a bit of washing up liquid round the rubber base helps it all go together smoothly. A quick test drive showed the car is a bit smoother and quieter and the clutch judder is slightly improved. I still have the irritating zizzing of the door lock buttons though - I suspect this is coming from the road, so perhaps wishbone or anti-roll bushes are to blame.

Pete

PS: I'll try to put photo in a follow-up post- I am having trouble uploading it (probably too big).

Here is the photo:



Pete
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hydramount 001.JPG (82.7 KB, 1232 views)

Last edited by Dragrad; 14th April 2015 at 23:35.. Reason: Consecutive posts - Use the edit ;-)
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