Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiser
That explanation is complete gobbledygook And I don't care who or what this person claims to be or have done!
And to claim that the rear and the front bank should have different timing is a sign of not understanding an iota of what is going on. This is about the dumbest I have heard in this discussion, to be quite honest. Who in their wildest dreams would give the first 3 cylinders one timing and a different timing for the last three cylinders on a straight 6?? Who? Blinking nonsense!
Of course the rear marks can be made to align perfectly! And if that is the correct setting (which I seriously believe it is), could have been found out this time, as the OP had a factory set engine, and could have verified this with a photograph.
It still can be found out, if you believe the special tools, because if the tools are fitted, where are the marks?
Take a photo and let us see!
That Diesel 1956 comes with a statement of pre-production delays is absolute nonsense. Once the correct timing is established for the engine, it is possible to make correct marks very easily, for Pete's sake, we are talking about two dimples, or marks, that is all. You don't need 12 months to make that. You can scribe this unto the sprockets when you assemble, if need be.
I think we are discussing with a bunch of people many of whom really do not understand how an engine works.
And for people that quote and paste or refer to information, give a link so people can go and read the whole story, don't just quote selectively.
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First, there is nothing mentioned about setting the timing differently between the front and rear bank in the text written by Diesel 1955.
Second, Here is the source thread for the text copied:
http://forums.mg-rover.org/mg-zt-rov...er4577-391583/
I have avoided to bring up this discussion in my thread as it has been discussed widely a lot of times over the years, and can`t see the need for bringing it up once more. Without knowing for sure why the design of the KV6 is as it is, we only have to rely on our own assumptions and experience regarding the setup, and the recommendations from the manufacturer. Input from one of the people behind the design might shed some light why things are as the are. At the end it is up to our own to decide which information we will rely on and how to proceed with the work. We all know that there is a lot of cr@p written out there from people without any relevant knowledge or experience, which all of the discussions around the KV6 belt and K4 head gasket shows. If you are unsure about how to set up the timing, follow the manufacturers instructions or just let everything be. We have seen many stories where people have made their own ways of doing things, and failed.
At the end, we can cook this sh!t down to a few simple ways to do the job:
1. If the engine has a good known timing and work well, leave the floating sprockets in place and replace the belt the "tipex" way. The chance for altering anything is minimal and the timing will probably by sufficient within correct timing. No special tools needed.
2. If the engine has been rebuilt or it is suspected that the timing is out, use the special tools to set the correct timing.
3. If the engine has been rebuilt and the special tools are not available, set the timing by locking the crankshaft in "safe position" and align the marks on the rear sprockets. The statement that this is the correct timing position makes good sense at the first glance, but why has Rover issued different tools for the different engines which will bring the marks on the rear sprockets out of position (Anyone please confirm/verify)?? I don`t want to waste my time and energy to discuss, but if in doubt as in point 2, use the tooling to verify timing.