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Originally Posted by Matt G
I have just gone to put the locking tools in place before removing the belt to check alignments ...
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Hello Matt,
Out of curiosity I did that too and, like you, the result was not what I expected! Since my engine had always run faultlessly I abandoned the idea and carried on with the belt replacement. When you fit your new front belt using the 190 tools your camshafts will be timed correctly and that’s all you need be concerned about.
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... the timing seems to be set for the locking 180 plates and not the 190 plates.
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There aren’t any specific 180 locking tools. There are only three versions: the Rover 2.0 & 2.5 KV6 and MG 190.
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Also the rear cam belts seem to be slightly out as well.
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We’ve all found this to be the case. When you’ve done the front belt you will have to remove the flywheel locking pin and move the engine very slightly in order the align the rear sprocket notches. The rear holding tools can then be fitted.
Matt; can I take this opportunity to mention a couple of important things I learnt when doing mine?
Pay particular attention to the tensioner and idler pulleys and replace them if running roughly.
On reassembly, it is vital that you set the position of the tensioner pulley according to INA’s service information (the OEM manufacturers of this pulley). This is not mentioned in RAVE or Haynes. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions and I’ll be glad to help.
Simon