[jn12]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

I was in complete agreement and was planning to complete the job this way. Method being -

1 - Crankshaft locked in the safe position and the marks on the rear chainwheels inline. (Front chainwheels previously loosened and moved enough to get the belt on, then tightened just enough to grip the camshaft)
2 - Remove locking pin and rotate engine enough to engage front chainwheel locking tool, then fully tighten camshaft end bolt

So, firstly, are we are all in aggreemant that the correct camshaft timing is when the rear chainwheel marks align and the engine in safe position (as -1- above)

If so, then we have to allow the front chainwheel to 'freewheel' in order to get the belt on, which, as I have found, will move the wheel so that the locking tool will not engage.

As the whole engine then has to be turned slightly before the tool will engage so that the camshaft end bolts can be fully tightened, then why are there different tools provided for 2 and 2.5 litre engines?

The whole issue seems to resolve over whether aligning the rear chainwheel markings when the engine is in safe position is the true position for correct valve timing for both sizes of engines. If it is, then the issue of tippexing! the front chainwheels is not important as the two camshafts (each head) can both be rotated independently back to that position and locked in position when the rear wheels and belt are fitted.

I think this is key. We need to know the position of the rear chaiwheels (and therefore camshafts) when the engine is in the safe position, and use the tools as assembly aids, rather than timing alignment jigs.

Perhaps I'm making a meal of this, but I feel that correct valve timing is critical to get the best out of these engines.

Locking the crank with the pin properly in place and crank sprocket lined up to it's mark the rear cam shaft gears will not meet exactly. Use the front tools and fit new belt then once done removed the tools then start on the rears.