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Originally Posted by KillerKilane
After fitting the filter, I added 3 liters of fuel, as I understood this was recommended after having done the change).
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The reasoning for this is as follows. The fuel tank is divided into two sections by a 'ridge'. The left side has the fuel filter and the right side is where the pump is located. When the fuel level drops lower than the ridge, the fuel level in each side is kept more or less equal by a simple 'recirculation' system. As the pump empties the RHS, it's fed into the filter module where part of the flow operates the recycle of fuel in the LHS. This keeps the pump inlet submerged in fuel. IF you get FFS, the fuel leaks from the filter case and it can't operate the recycle. So, fuel is transfered from right to left in the tank. If you persistantly try to start the engine, the pump will eventually be starved of because all the fuel is in the LHS. So, after fixing the filter using a new o-ring/orange clip, you may have to add fuel to the RHS so the pump will operate and start the car. I suspect that the gurgling sound you report is air being drawn into the pump. Adding just three litres of fuel may not be enough to ensure the pump inlet is fully submerged (it sits in a pickup cup.) I suggest to add another 5 litres.
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I'm also gonna check the fuel pressure at the rail today (think I found the Schroder valve), but not sure if I could check the pressure by myself, or if I need someone to crank the engine while I measure?
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If you're planning to use a tyre pressure gauge, it is a 2-man job. If you attach a proper dial gauge to the valve, you can do it alone as described by
vitesse.
Note that a non-electrical tyre gauge is essential for fire safety and that there is a distinct possibilty that fuel might be sprayed out as you press it onto the Schrader valve.
TC