Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian
Ensure the remote pcb buttons both work, if not you will have to clean the moulding flash out of the casing to allow the buttons to work.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian
Take a look at the rear part of the new case, is there what appears to be a thin sprig of plastic sticking out? if so pull it off with a pair of pliers and try again, failing that heat up the shank of a bolt with a blowlamp, or over the gas in the kitchen when the missus isn't about and melt the round inner part of the button with the cross slightly.
This should make the buttons on the remote work, the sticking out part on a genuine Valeo casing aligns with a small hole in the PCB, this is not so on a cheap casing.
You are 90% there, don't give up now 
Brian  |
I'm not so sure Brian.
Here are the two cases side by side - cheapy new one on the left and the car's original Valeo on the right. (I've got two sets of each)
For the button system to work, the PCB has to sit at exactly the right level in the button half and stay there when the back is clipped on.
The sprigs (arrowed red) on the cheapy button half shouldn't be there at all because they throw the PCB
away from the button plungers - this means the plungers don't reach the microswitches and the fob is rendered useless.
So I shaved the sprigs off using a small and
very sharp wood chisel.
* This improved things slightly but it's still not right - the plungers
still aren't close enough to the microswitches. The only way to make it work now is to increase the length of the plungers. If I use the heated bolt trick, surely it'll shorten them instead? I think they need shimming - gawd knows how though. If the shims are too fat it'll definitely break the microswitches
, too thin and the plungers still won't reach.
NB.
* The cheapy case shown here is not the one I used the chisel on.
