Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too
Hello Paul,
Yes, it's either down to a previous dose of K-seal or your thermostat isn't opening.
To start with, how about disconnecting top and bottom radiator hoses, inserting a hose pipe into the top and observing the flow out of the bottom?
I take it that this time you have drained the cooling system fully, including loosening the cylinder block plug, and following the MGR procedure exactly.
Simon
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I wonder if it was run up to thermostat opening temp ? what the the rad top and top hose temp feel like in comparison to the bottom ? was there a noticeable increase in pressure felt by squeezing the hoses, not scientific but can give some indication, how long was the engine run for at least 20 mins ?
I think nothing would be lost and there may be something to gain by having a full coolant system test, by the book.
When cold, pressure test the cap and system, if no leaks, drop in pressure or sign of coolant loss over at least 10 mins, release the pressure, start the engine at a fast idle then whilst observing the pressure rise, quickly and constantly keep going round
all hoses, radiator, stat housing etc. with an i.r. temperature gun noting any rises in temp, or none, keeping an eye on the pressure gauge, that it doesn't go over cap blow off pressure, until the fan comes on, then back to normal idle till the fan goes off, again monitoring the temperatures.
Once the fan stops, switch off and monitor pressure drop
until stone cold, several hours,there may be a very small amount of residual pressure too low to show on many coolant test gauges, but may be heard as a small hiss, but shouldn't be readable.
If you are methodical with the i.r. gun you will be able to follow the coolant heat flow through the system and see if there are actually areas where the temp increase is minimal compared with elsewhere, or where hot water would be expected and also note when the stat opens or not, everything being equal, by the time the fan comes on at max. temp, all the components, hoses etc should be be around the same temp, but allow for a small temp drop through the radiator, even before the fan comes on.
A simple radiator flow test can be done with two people and a bit of ingenuity, remove the bottom hose and ' bung ' up the rad spigot, if possible, slacken the top hose at the radiator and remove it from the engine, spin the hose round to point upright to act as a funnel, slowly fill with water to the top of the top hose and whip the bottom bung out, it should empty pretty rapidly and be clean.