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Old 5th December 2019, 09:22   #16
BigBen
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R75 V8 Tourer, CDTi Auto Tourer (both Connie SE), MG ZT-T 190+, MG TF 115

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
How did you share the tasks? It would be an understatement to say that it was "a pain" for one person to hold two sprocket wheels in a precise position against considerable valve spring pressure with just one hand on each.

I wasn't asking about adjusting the tensioner Ben. Was the hydraulic casing bolted to the engine at the time that you laced the belt?
No, it wasn't. There's no reason you can't put the belt on slack and then tension everything up afterwards, so long as all the marks line up. You just need to know how to count teeth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen View Post
I had no choice as the workshop tool won't fit my engine anyway.
That's not true. There is a tool separately available for the 190 engine. Some members say that the spigots on the standard tool can be reversed to achieve the same result.
It is true, as my engine has Piper 270 cams and verniers... it's the tool for the 150/2.0 V6 that will fit the 190 if you reverse the pins on it, it's been done many times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Which bolt head? Did you remove the exhaust cam sprocket to release the belt? Your reply implies that you did. If so, I can't think of a bolt head which you could have used.
I only remove the pulley on the inlet side, and use a ratchet with a 19mm deep socket to adjust/hold the exhaust cam; then you can use the tension of the front belt to stop the cam from moving when you tighten the inlet bolt back up (obviously the old main belt before you remove it). The rear belts/pulleys are much easier to line up as the marks are clearly visible, stamped into the pulleys (although a dob of tip-ex can help to make them stand out a bit). Also, due to the rear belt inlet-side pulleys being keyed to the cam they require no special tool to re-fit them correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
You claimed to have done it without the tools so I'd like to hear your explanation please. Or are you saying that the person helping you was Trikey?
It's quite simple. If you don't undo the bolts on the front cam sprockets there's no need to re-time the cams, so therefore you don't need the tool (and even then it's not that difficult to re-time the cams without it). I've done it 3 times now, so..

The tool is really an aid for speed of fitment rather than a necessity.

The tone and first part of that paragraph lead me to conclude that you believe me to be a liar. That's fine, I've been called worse - If you don't believe me it's no skin off my nose.

No it wasn't Trikey, it was a good friend of mine who has been a mechanic for over 25 years. The same person with whom I rebuilt the engine and tuned it in 2007. But I have no doubt that Trikey will be able to explain it better; with a bit of luck a certain S. African gentleman may put in his tuppence, too .
Let's just say I've had this conversation a few times before...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Simon
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Past cars:-
BL: Discovery 3.1 & V8 2WD pick-up, Rover 800 Vitesse Turbo Coupe, 820 SLi 180 Fastback, 600ti, Montego 2.0EFi VDP, Ital 1.3 Estate
Ford: Transit Cosworth V6, Granada 2.9 V6 Scorpio & 2.8 V6 GL
Volvo: 480 Turbo & 1.7 ES, 240 GLE
Porsche: 944 2.7 Lux
Audi: 100 ESE 20v
Peugeot: 405 1.9 GR
Talbot: Alpine 1.6 Rapier S

Last edited by BigBen; 5th December 2019 at 12:05.. Reason: Spelink etc.
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