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Old 4th January 2011, 01:30   #6
Robson Rover Repair
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ZT-T 190 / 75 Diesel x3 / 6 door limo / 216 Cabby / Rover 25 van

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Default CHAPTER 06 - Common faults to all Rover 75 / MG ZT's

Common faults to all Rover 75 / MG ZT'S

This is a list of common faults all the cars can suffer from, none specific to engine, transmission or bodyshell type and is very much worth noting. The majority of these problems are very simple fixes and can be excellent bargaining tools when purchasing a car.

From now on, all Rover 75/Rover 75 Tourers/MG ZT/MG ZTT's shall be referred to as "the cars" however unique tourer and saloon problems are listed at the end.

You will note mention of the "T4" diagnostics machine a lot. This was a computer system designed for the MG Rover cars, to give readouts via an ODB plug in the cars (Just above the accelerator pedal!).

A T4 can preform many specific tasks on our cars, and often only a T4 can read them correctly, despite what many other aftermarket systems offer.

A T4 session can be booked through your local X Part dealership, the website and contact details can be be found in the useful links section.

Additionally this map shows the dealers in the regions around the mainland UK.

Mainland UK MG Rover dealers and service centres

This thread shows them in Northern ireland...

Trusted MG Rover servicing, dealerships and Xpart in Northern ireland

Major Recalls......

Servicing and service history can be an issue with cars, especially with so few MG Rover focused dealerships now days, often they will have been maintained by mechanics not knowledgeable in the solutions.

This forum is proof of it and many cars have been saved through the DIY and how to guides.

Important recalls effecting the cars over the years, worth checking on service history....

March 2000 - Engine may cut out while the vehicle is being driven (cars built 01/02/1998-08/10/1999)

July 2002 - Front suspension spring problems (cars built 01/12/1998-27/10/1999)

May 2004 - Possible damage and deflation of tyre due to road spring (cars built 27/10/1999-20/02/2002)

Keys

The first thing you want when purchasing your car is the keys to drive it, well check there are two keys with it!

Purchasing new keys that actually work properly is an expensive (£180 - £220) and takes a while because they have to be supplied by BMW in Germany.

That means you have to seek out an authorized UK agent to start the process which is an Xpart dealer and also has a T4 to code the keys correctly to the car.

A considerable expense on a second hand car! A member on here "Lates" can help out as he can order keys at a discounted rate.
Replacement keys from Lates

You may also notice the key fobs are worn or split around the rubber area you press your finger on to activate the fob itself. You can source these on ebay for around £5 all in, and below is a handy guide for not only changing your fob battery,but also dismantling it in general.

Key Fob dismantling

Air bag light always on

A common problem on the cars and 90% of the time its just the connectors under the seat. There is a yellow connector and a blue connector, often when the seat is moved or jerked they will pull out slightly.

Just reinsert them / squeeze them in tighter and it will sort the airbag light. Make sure to do both sides just incase. Turn the car on and let the engine run for a second and then turn off, the light will then go off and be recorded by the cars ecu as fixed so you have full airbag safety again.

The other 10% of the time theres an Airbag control module or side impact sensor which can fail, and whilst not expensive it then a T4 session will give you the exact error code to confirm which is at fault.

This thread gives you loads of details on the under of the seats, how to remove them and airbag wiring and modules.
Seat wiring and airbag pictures

Bonnet cable

This is very common on second hand cars, as the cable to the bonnet as a "dividing block" on it which stretches and sometimes pulls through. Should your cable snap you are going to have fun getting under your bonnet.

There are many ways you could do it, but if you PM a member of the moderation team and explain the problem they will give you the list how. Its actually shockingly obvious and most mechanics would do the same.

This bonnet cable and catch issue can be prevented by following the very basic advise in this thread!
Bonnet cable - servicing and prevention of breaks

Handbrake not holding car

The usual common problem with our cars and one the forum has only managed to solve recently. Due to the design on the cars, you could actually replace everything and still have a poor handbrake because of a single simple metal clip which stetches and deforms over time.


You will notice a little X to the right of the image pointing to a clip behind the tensioner. This is the section which warps and deforms over time. The thread below shows the part in detail.

The dodgy handbrake - cure?

Much debate as to the best solution to prevent this is ongoing, but most people are replacing the unit and having a perfect handbrake after. This again is around £10.

Below is the exact guide on how to set and adjust your handbrake correctly!

Handbrake tensioner adjustment as per factory specs

Pleniums / Water logging / Flooded ECU

The plenum is a chamber that collects fresh air to feed the interior vents/aircon system. It's located between the firewall at the rear of the engine and the wall which forms the front of the cab section. Air is supplied via the scuttle vents, which run across the body below the windscreen.

It's important that the plenum remains dry because it houses the ECU. This is mounted a few inches above the floor on the firewall face. Also vulnerable to flood water is the pollen filter, which is mounted over a large hatch on the nearside of the rear wall. If the lower edge of the filter gets wet, it soon starts to smell and this gets into the cab with the incoming air.

On Mark 1 models, there are two further rubber tubes which drain the upper plenum area. These are located on the upper front wings, near the bonnet hinges.

On Mark 2 models (and some late Mark 1s), the driver's side drain is plugged off. This is because the drain is actually too high for water to enter and is therefore redundant. The upper drain tubes are similar to the others and have a flattened nozzle, which directs water onto the back of the wheel arch liner. From here, it runs onto the ground.

Keeping an eye on this is very worthwhile, I myself was very lucky with my first ZT when the plenium under the ECU was filled with soil and had began to flood!

This guide below gives some handy hints on the best way of servicing and preventing any further issues.

Plenum help and advise guide

The sunroof drains can occasionally do the same thing, and a guide here shows what to look for.

Leaky sunroof drains

Failed reversing lights

Reversing light failure is nearly always due to a £5 switch which can be done in no time at all DIY. This guide explains everything in several simple photos and is not worth repeating in words.

DIY fixing of reversing lights

Boot "machine gunning noise" and rear leaks

The first time this happens you will know it, the boot lock when opened sounds like a machine gun as the boot lock mechanism doesnt lift high enough off the lock. Again, prehaps after air bag light the most common fault on the cars.

A few simple twists of the black rubbers either side of the boot to raise the boot light alignment height will resolve this always unless the motor is faulty.

Rear light seals will usually be the fault of a boot leak and having nothing to door with the boot itself. Simply remove them from the car, and use some clear sealant around the seals to prevent this happening again.

Also the rear "atmosphere" vents in the boot can leak, this guide explains how to fix them in great detail.

Fixing leaking boot vents

Also in the tourer, check the seal around the rear window hasnt become dislodged or torn, this is a major cause of rear leaks in tourers along with rear light cluster clips that are broken off.

Steering alignment / snapped springs

Tyres often wear unevenly, especially at the rear. Some cars were supplied with misaligned suspension when new. It’s always a good idea to check rear tyre wear on early models, the best solution being to get a four-wheel alignment done. Front coil springs are also prone to breaking but the rears can also go.

When having a full wheel allignment done it has been discovered that the car needs to have a FULL tank of petrol else i will continue to drift slightly to the left!

In car Diagnostic Mode

Nice handy one this to test the dash is working fully, follow the simple guide and use the cluster test to ensure your dash and systems are functioning correctly!
Diagnostic Mode via the dash- Updated, Clarified and Simplified

Two videos are below showing the Cluster System test in action.

Dash test of IPk dials without trip computer

Dash test with IPK trip computer fitted

Handy streamlined buyers guide

This is a useful and streamlined guide for viewing a car, prehaps as a first viewing should you be interested or if you know little about buying cars.

Again, thanks to "rrobson" for taking the time to produce this for everyone benefit!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobson

Information and documents
Service history
Road tax disc,and if not sorn documentation.
Previous MOT's, and look specifically for any advisories
Any receipts and that they coincide with the service history
HPI check

Exterior
Wheels and tyres, tyres aren't bald/damaged and wheels aren't buckled (may need to get under car to check inner rim) and uneven wear
Suspension components, springs aren't broken and car doesn't sit to one side, dampers work effectively (you will need to get under the car to check the springs)
Exhaust, not rusty or about to drop off
Look for any lights that stay on (a bulb failure will show up now, so of there are no lights on, there are no bulbs out / problems)
Bumpers + doors, all undamaged and gaps are small and consistent, doors open + close as they should, all doors unlock, boot unlocks with key + button (pre facelift /mk1) button in car and with fob (facelift/mk2)
Paintwork, check condition and all panels are the same colour
Bonnet, check it opens properly
Body/sills for clamp marks, as it is a tell tale sign of an accident damaged car

Engine bay
When inspecting the car, make sure the garage or owner doesnt turn the car on before you get there so you can check fluid levels
Fluid levels, oil, coolant, power steering, brake (under panel below windscreen)
Engine mountings
Radiator, check for damage or leak
Coolant staining, any pink / red / orange staining in the engine bay is coolant, may have leaked.
Brake lines, corroded/damaged is an MOT failure
Check for mayo on dipstick or under oil filler cap - head gasket failure!
Check the plenum where the brake fluid is for water


Engine
Check it starts fine
Listen for any knocking noises/noises that it shouldn't be making
Check the engine runs smoothly
Check it revs freely
Check clutch, make sure bite is in the middle, not at the top of bottom
Check the gearbox,
(manual) make sure each gear engages properly and doesn't jump out when the clutch is brought up to the bite in each gear
(auto) make sure gear changes are smooth, not snappy or harsh, and make sure each mode can be engaged and that when each specific gear is selected, it changes down appropriately and goes no higher than the selected gear
Check the fan, press the demist button and the low speed fan should kick in
Check the engine idles properly, no fluctuation in revs
When the engine is warm, make sure no coolant is coming out of the cap

Interior
Check all seats for wear/damage + feel supportive
Check all dash + steering wheel is clean ond undamaged
Check all buttons on dash work as they should
Check all seats adjust properly
Check all mirrors work
Check all windows work
Check that the handbrake holds the car properly (may need to do while driving)
Check the brakes, don't feel spongy or pull to side
Check the radio works and has a code (if required)

When driving
Don't have the radio on at this time so you can listen for noises
Check steering feels OK, no knocks etc + turn fully lock to lock
Check that the car accelerates properly
Check that the breaks work properly
Drive over bumps to listen for rattles
Check that the steering wheel is straight when driving straight
Check the car drives straight and not to one side


When the car is properly warm, or when you get back, turn the car off and restart it, camshaft sensor sometimes stops working when the engine is hot so wont start.

Last edited by Robson Rover Repair; 3rd September 2011 at 20:13..
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