Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink
Yes, after I posted the above, I suddenly realised that the lateral movement would be stopped by the connection to the trailing arms.
Good point about torqueing up with the weight being on the wheels - I'd have missed that! Have you got a list of relevant torque settings btw?
Did you put the lower arms on too while it was on the ground?
I've got a couple of Duratool D00324 dollies I'm hoping use to slide the whole thing under. I can bolt them together with two wooden crossbeams so they can be any length. The only thing is they're 120mm high and I don't know if the exhaust is going to be in the way.
I've got a metre of 12mm threaded bar - I'll cut two pieces off that to use as lifting aids. It still means a short lift by hand though - to get the bars through the subframe bushes. Or does it? Maybe if I put them through the bushes first, before the whole caboodle goes under the car. Can't get my brain round that one without actually seeing it.  |
I built it complete, to be able to lift it onto the threaded bars. But I used the 4, which made it quite awkward as it would stick on them as it rocked on the top of my trolley jack. That's why I say to use only 2. Once raised to the chassis, you can then attach the hubs to the arms. There will be a fair bit of movement in the hubs and trailing arms to allow you to do this.
When you first remove the sub frame (old). Support the trailing arms or hubs to save damaging the bushes. I used a spare set of axle stands for this and bungee cords when it came to assembly. It will all be very obvious when you come to do it
I have a pdf at home of all the torque settings if no one has them before.
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