Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr1100xx
Does anyone know what length the threaded section was on the original drop links , ie the ones the cars left the factory with?
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24mm on my original factory links Stan, as
Ducati750cc has said. Why do you ask?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TourerSteve
By using any crows foot you are altering the horizontal length ...
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Yes, agreed, by the distance from the centre of the thread to the drive axis. This is probably going to be of the order of 10mm. The relevant length of my torque wrench is 450mm so, according to
Norbar Ltd's formula, the tool's setting would need to be 58.69 to achieve the actual torque of 60 Nm. That degree of accuracy is impossible on my torque wrench scale so it's academic really.
When a torque figure is specified there's a reason for it and it's obviously good practice to observe that whenever possible. Whether it's 58 or 60 Nm, I know that I am as close as possible to the correct figure. With a spanner I wouldn't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bl52krz
Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
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That's specified in the section describing
only anti-roll bar link renewal. I am, of course, changing the springs as well and in that section there's apparently no requirement to have the weight of the car on the suspension.
1st edit:
Having now refitted the first of my refurbished struts to the car, I have found out why MG Rover says that the bottom nut should be tightened with the weight of the car on the suspension. The reason is that with the road spring relaxed the link's bottom balljoint pin is 3 cm lower than the hole in the anti-roll bar!
2nd edit: This was possibly because I had forgotten that the disconnected anti-roll bar at the other side of the car was temporarily supported on blocks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bl52krz
Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
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On completion of the job and out of interest I tried this. It's only possible if the car is on ramps, on a garage lift or over a pit (the torque wrench can only be used vertically below the car).
3rd edit: Update: if you have enough socket extensions plus a universal joint and turn the steering to full lock, a torque wrench
can be used on the anti-roll bar link bottom nut. After setting it to the specified 60 Nm with the car raised, once the weight of the car was on the suspension I checked to see if any further tightening was required as specified by MG Rover. It wasn't. There was absolutely no difference to the torque of that nut whether the suspension was compressed or not so make of that what you will!
Simon