Quote:
Originally Posted by klarzy
Its not unusual to leave the rear half of the inner bearing shell on the stub axel, they are a split design and it's why torqueing correctly is so essential.
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Luckily this has only happened to me once - chisel will get it free.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klarzy
I sometimes remove mine and clean / re-grease the bearing before refitting and you should torque to 210 Nm or 21kgs of rotational force 1 meter from the centre of the nut, that can seem bloomin hard to shift if you only have a short socket set...  . |
You wouldn't try to remove a wheel nut just using a ratchet handle, why would you try that on a bearing! The front hub nut on my Megane is 275nm - that's fine with the correct tool but impossible otherwise.
The hardest part is the stakenut - it's possible to remove it without staking if you can put the force in (with a 36" breaker bar it's easy) but it's probably not a good idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klarzy
if you use the same nut then ensure the staved area on the old nut is not reused, or better still, get new nuts (they usually come in a bearing kit...).
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I think Brian recommends the opposite - the staked portion of the nut provides a datum and should line up exactly if torqued correctly.
Although the bearings SHOULD come with new nuts - they often don't, or come with the wrong size (which fits the stub axle, but not in the recess). And buying a new nut from Rimmers et al is just extortionate -
and I couldn't find them anywhere else.