Thread: CDT Water pump
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Old 24th May 2020, 21:27   #4
spyder
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75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva

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A long winded fiddly job that requires a couple of jacks, 1/4 sockets (in addition to the rest) and a 1/42 flex head extension. A Easy weekend job. Replace the waterpump/thermostat Ancillary belt and tensioner while you are at it.

It does mean removing the engine mountings and struggling with the tensioner (24mm very thin long spanner).

On M6 nut on the stat and one at the back of the engine, holding the water pipe in place are a real NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-. Other than that, by jacking the engine up and down, all bolts are accessible.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Best_of_British View Post
As soon as a a problem is solved, another one seems to present itself. I finally fixed ABS light while in lockdown by replacing a rear hub and front sensor, that was such a pain to get out I had to take the front strut off the car. Driving around smugly with no warning lights for a change, then suddenly a horrible bearing rumbling noise and squeaky aux belt.

It looks like a bit of coolant on belt and the noise appears to be coming from water pump. The rate in which it is getting louder means this is a job that needs sorting soon. I have seen Mike Noc get 300k out of his water pump, this is 140k but being a Y reg it is past its service life.

Question is, is it a water pump, thermostat and new belt job and if so any advice or links on quality parts on a budget. Any tips for tackling the job and a rough guide on time it will take?

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