Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilish
On the end of your wiring loom you should have these plugs
75/ZT /MkI/MkII it is a factory standard.
The 6 pin plug should look like this from above
They plug into these sockets
75/ZT /MkI/MkII, they All start ALL PCB's from a 75/ZT and Land Rover Freelander ,when the engine is started and the ambient temp is 5 °C
If the PCB originated from a BMW, Range Rover L322, etc, although identical, it will NOT start. Even if you do say Messiah. |
Nice pictures Steve, when I said the PCB were identical, what I should have said is the PCB plugs are identical
The last line piqued my interest though, so do we know what is different in the case of the PCB's fitted to BMW and RR L322 then? is it a firmware issue, or do they require an input in the format of a K-Bus message from the HEVAC in order that they start up?
My knowledge of the FBH is limited to what I've discovered since I started playing with the one I was given a couple of months back, and what I managed to glean from searching for information in retrofitting the T80 and timer which came without their respective looms.
In all of the documentation relating to the control PCB variant fitted to my FBH, version 91452C, the auxiliary heater function is initiated by applying an input signal from the alternator to pin 1 of the six way plug, or in the case of a parking heater via the output from the timer, however having said that all documentation I've seen so far relates only to aftermarket versions of Thermotop C, and not manufacturer specific variants
In the case of R40, that means the alternator signal from the ECM comes in via the bi-metal N/O outside temperature sensor contact on the PAS cooler pipework, or in the case of the diagram I posted earlier in the thread, the timer pulling this pin high starts the FBH.
I will defer to the voice of experience though, I'm definitely a "newbie" when it comes the Webasto
Brian
