Quote:
Originally Posted by Reebs
Funny that, I’ve been using three ‘cheapie’ non Valeo casings for the last couple of years and didn’t do any of that lot. 
Mind you, I didn’t fiddle about with swapping blades, good old Mr Timpson did the honours for me. Guess I’m just lucky eh Brian  |
Paul, I reckon I've done enough of these now to know don't you ?
If you wish to use a blade from an original key, you must exchange the black plastic part from the new uncut blade onto the original blade, because it won't fit into the new housing securely otherwise, but of course if you've had the blank blade cut this doesn't apply
The plastic pegs on the copy cases, protrude inwardly 1.3mm further than an original key, so unless the rubber pads on the microswitches are worn, then the lock button especially is prone to being depressed continuously meaning neither button works
Also, I would be careful when you come to change the battery on your key remote, because if you haven't secured the transponder with hot melt glue, or blutack, it will ping off into oblivion..........which is very inconvenient.
If you have an original key, and a copy variant, look at the outer buttons in profile, you will find on a genuine Valeo case, the buttons are actually proud of the case, and that of the copy flush, and the length of the plastic stub inside each being the same length.
There is a reason I posted what I did, and it is to save anyone the inconvenience of finding they have lost the keyblade from their car, or having a car that won't start because the transponder falls out when they change the battery on the remote.
This advice extends to both Simon, and indeed yourself when it comes to transponder security
Brian