[Blink]

Sorry for the delay in answering chaps - I'm bogged down on something else at the moment (ABS brackets). Anyway, back to the master cylinder plot.


RE BLEEDING THE MASTER

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

You can either bleed it from the master to the bleed valve or some do it in reverse using a large syringe full of fluid back to the master via the bleed valve. Either way,empty the master of old fluid using a tube on a syringe and put something under the master to catch spillage as it gets messy!

I don't understand Mike. When you say 'bleed it from the master to the bleed valve', presumably that means all the fluid in the master is forced out at the bleed valve end - in which case why does the master still have to be emptied with a syringe?

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Either way bleed it before connecting the new slave cylinder up - you don't want to contaminate the new slave.

Ok, I'll remember to bleed it before the slave is connected (assuming I manage to suss out how to bleed it).


RE REPLACING THE MASTER

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

If it aint broke don't fix it! .....

Originally Posted by ashy90

I would certainly consider it. There has been many people have premature slave cylinder failure on fairly new clutch / slaves. Some have had repeated failures. It is thought the master cylinder breaks down inside and contaminates the new slave.

The LandRover Freelander TD4 has exactly the same concentric slave cylinder as the 75, yet the Freelander seems to have far less issues with new slave cylinders failing. Same engine, gearbox, and slave as the 75, so whats the difference? Different master cylinder on the Freelander - more like the one fitted to the Rover 45 actually. That and LandRover dealers change the master cylinder any time a new clutch slave is being fitted.

That's one vote in favour of not changing it and one in favour of changing it. Now I really don't know what to do.

Ashley: what would you change it for - a metal one or a plastic one?

Rimmers have a pre-filled one with ready-made pipe for £122 (STC100146) or a kit version with an unmade pipe for £87 (STC100146T). The pre-filled one appears to be plastic and the kit one is metal.

Then DMGRS have an AP branded plastic master with no pipe for £50 (link) - and just to add to the confusion here's an Luk pre-filled plastic one with ready-made pipe for £165 (link).

There are probably more but I'm confused enough already!