View Single Post
Old 22nd September 2020, 12:14   #9
HarryM1BYT
This is my second home
 
HarryM1BYT's Avatar
 
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
I don't understand Mike. When you say 'bleed it from the master to the bleed valve', presumably that means all the fluid in the master is forced out at the bleed valve end - in which case why does the master still have to be emptied with a syringe?

Ashley: what would you change it for - a metal one or a plastic one?
There is a quick release coupling in the hydraulic pipe, which self seals to avoid having to bleed it. Part the coupling and defeat the self sealing, that will allow the fluid to run out with the master cylinder cap removed, plus diaphragm under it. Refill and pump it out with the pedal unit it runs clear.

The other way is to pump fluid up from the slave bleed nipple, with a syringe, with master cap removed. Master does not have a bleed nipple, it will just overflow (see below).

Replace the master and which one, I have no opinion on? Swapping the master for the plastic one is quite an easy task, even at the road side - so if you have doubts, carry replacement plastic master as a spare, plus the tools to do it.

Swapping is a matter of undoing two fixing nuts to the bulkhead, taking out the clevis pin fixing it to pedal, then pulling it out far enough that you can push a roll pin out, which retains the pipe. Then reassembling with replacement master and bleeding through. I could do it in 30 minutes, but when I broke down in south Wales with no spare, a break down garage charged me £460 and two days, to get me back on the road [1].

A new master arrives with the plastic pipe and quick release joint already attached at the far end. Getting that through the bulkhead into the engine compartment is a nightmare task and mostly unnecessary, if you don't mind bleeding it and in retaining the original pipe.

Bleed method is one of attaching a large medical syringe, filled with brake fluid, via a short bit of plastic pipe onto the (released) bleed nipple below the battery. Remove the master cap and diaphragm, add plenty of newspaper under it and pump fluid in, until it flows out perfectly clear of discolouration.

[1] I bought the fancy Polish billet alloy master cylinder, as a replacement for my plastic original. All of the billet alloy ones had an issue with a weak seal failing in use, so it was a complete waste of money. It had though felt better in use, until it eventually failed. This is not the same metal master as the one you mention.
__________________
Harry

How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.
HarryM1BYT is offline   Reply With Quote