Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishytroll66
Nice one CLF,
regarding cranking the heat up, I am more concerned about the chill factor to my fingers tbh  . Do you recommend changing the manifold seals / gaskets at the same time? If so, I can order the lot from Matt in one go.
Only problem I have is the three screw holding the intake to the slam panel are just spinning, guess I can just wedge the whole thing out of the way though.
cheers,  |
which manifold? the air intake manifold? if it is, you dont need to touch the manifold to remove the top hose. Two of my screws in the intake hose were spinning, however, I simply lifted the top of the slam panel as I unscrewed and they came out. You can buy new nuts on ebay cheaply, however I cannot remember their name, but I have never bothered. (incidentally, you can get away with pulling the hose away from the intake and sliding it over - but you dont even have to do that).
If you are removing the intake manifold for whatever reason, whilst you shouldnt need to replace the gaskets, it is good practice to replace.
If you are replacing the original thermostat, I havent done this yet, however, I believe you WILL need to replace the OEM thermostat seals. (the R5 mod has none to replace).
If it has never been done before, you will need to cut the steel band on the hose at the engine side, ultimately replacing with a hose clip. To cut, I used a junior hacksaw, scored the band with the saw, and the at its edge until cut through, then with pliers, peeled back like a corned beef can. Have you seen the how to for replacing both stats?
Jule's How To
Arctic's How To
Mat (DMGRS)'s OEM How To
Just remember to check for the water tightness, by filling the bowl, all the effort will be for nought if it is not tight.
Not watertight
Watertight.