High pressure fuel pump

howardf · 31st December 2017, 17:52

A very big thanks to Arctic who supplied me a replacement HP diesel fuel pump and advice on how to replace.

Taking my time and using the how to's from the forum...namely the removing of the inlet manifold (Jakg), starter removal (Arctic), cover removal tool manufacture (Arctic) took about 4 1/2 hours.
To be fair if I did one again it would be much quicker....I was just very wary jacking up the engine and the removal of the old pump with the tool...When I was pressing the old pump out it didn't half go with a bang when it broke the taper!

Only addition I can add to the how to's is I used a spark plug socket on the 21mm sprocket nut, this lets you use a spanner on the sockets hex drive rather than trying to fit on a ratchet handle.

Any way, all fitted and no leaks.... The Rover lives on!

Many thanks to all who have contributed to the forum and how to,s I used, I would not have been able to take it on without the help.

Happy new year all!��

Arctic · 3rd January 2018, 01:47

Hi Howard.
Glad to hear you are all sorted, hopefully you will repair the pump you took of if so below are a couple of links for the seals etc cheers Arctic.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...19.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CP1-Unive....c100011.m1850

dinky d · 19th January 2018, 19:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by howardf

A very big thanks to Arctic who supplied me a replacement HP diesel fuel pump and advice on how to replace.

Taking my time and using the how to's from the forum...namely the removing of the inlet manifold (Jakg), starter removal (Arctic), cover removal tool manufacture (Arctic) took about 4 1/2 hours.
To be fair if I did one again it would be much quicker....I was just very wary jacking up the engine and the removal of the old pump with the tool...When I was pressing the old pump out it didn't half go with a bang when it broke the taper!

Only addition I can add to the how to's is I used a spark plug socket on the 21mm sprocket nut, this lets you use a spanner on the sockets hex drive rather than trying to fit on a ratchet handle.

Any way, all fitted and no leaks.... The Rover lives on!

Many thanks to all who have contributed to the forum and how to,s I used, I would not have been able to take it without the help.

Happy new year all!🍻

Hi Howard,why did the fuel pump have to be repaired/replaced.

goofysth · 24th January 2018, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by howardf

A very big thanks to Arctic who supplied me a replacement HP diesel fuel pump and advice on how to replace.

Taking my time and using the how to's from the forum...namely the removing of the inlet manifold (Jakg), starter removal (Arctic), cover removal tool manufacture (Arctic) took about 4 1/2 hours.
To be fair if I did one again it would be much quicker....I was just very wary jacking up the engine and the removal of the old pump with the tool...When I was pressing the old pump out it didn't half go with a bang when it broke the taper!

Only addition I can add to the how to's is I used a spark plug socket on the 21mm sprocket nut, this lets you use a spanner on the sockets hex drive rather than trying to fit on a ratchet handle.

Any way, all fitted and no leaks.... The Rover lives on!

Many thanks to all who have contributed to the forum and how to,s I used, I would not have been able to take it without the help.

Happy new year all!🍻

Nice to hear you succeeded

I have the exactly same problem with HP pump leaking...

I have few questions, just to confirm that i want to do this:

1. How difficult is to remove the HP pump from the engine?
2. Do i need only two tools, one for extracting the pump from the engine and another to 'lock' the engine (timing tool)?

Also, howardf or Artic can you send me the link on these tools?

Thanks

Mike Noc · 25th January 2018, 08:08

You only need the one tool - it holds the intermediate sprocket which drives the pump, and also the camshafts, in place whilst the pump is removed.

It also allows you to break the taper on the pump shaft.

Timing isn't an issue as long as the sprocket stays in place, and the pump itself isn't timed so nothing to worry about there.

goofysth · 25th January 2018, 10:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

You only need the one tool - it holds the intermediate sprocket which drives the pump, and also the camshafts, in place whilst the pump is removed.

It also allows you to break the taper on the pump shaft.

Timing isn't an issue as long as the sprocket stays in place, and the pump itself isn't timed so nothing to worry about there.

Thanks Mike Noc. please, what ‘break the taper’ means?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Arctic · 25th January 2018, 11:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by goofysth

Nice to hear you succeeded

I have the exactly same problem with HP pump leaking...

I have few questions, just to confirm that i want to do this:

1. How difficult is to remove the HP pump from the engine?
2. Do i need only two tools, one for extracting the pump from the engine and another to 'lock' the engine (timing tool)?

Quote:

Also, howardf or Artic can you send me the link on these tools?

Thanks

HI Dragan
This is the tool you will need, once you have removed the cover cap which is a 17mm allen key or you can make a tool out of the head of a 17mm bolt, pics to follow.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253170086806

Mike Noc · 25th January 2018, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by goofysth

Thanks Mike Noc. please, what ‘break the taper’ means?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The end of the pump shaft is tapered where the sprocket sits:

goofysth · 25th January 2018, 11:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

This is the tool you will need, once you have removed the cover cap which is a 17mm allen key or you can make a tool out of the head of a 17mm bolt, pics to follow.

Arctic, please send additional pics, thanks.

goofysth · 30th January 2018, 15:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Howard.
Glad to hear you are all sorted, hopefully you will repair the pump you took of if so below are a couple of links for the seals etc cheers Arctic.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...19.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-CDI...19.m1438.l2649

Arctic, i found lots of clear instructions, don't send any pics, it is clear as day.

Just confirm few part numbers for me:
Fuel pump seal kit BOSCH number is: F 01M 101 454
Fuel pump regulator seal kit BOSCH number is: F 01M 100 278
And third is MGR seal from the link, right:https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-MHX100190

These three are important? And a tool, of course...

I read various topics where it is necessary to check the pump number, because there are two types of seals, is that right?

31st December 2017, 17:52	#1
howardf Regular poster ROVER 75 SALOON Join Date: May 2014 Location: Doncaster Posts: 64 Thanks: 22 Thanked 25 Times in 15 Posts	High pressure fuel pump A very big thanks to Arctic who supplied me a replacement HP diesel fuel pump and advice on how to replace. Taking my time and using the how to's from the forum...namely the removing of the inlet manifold (Jakg), starter removal (Arctic), cover removal tool manufacture (Arctic) took about 4 1/2 hours. To be fair if I did one again it would be much quicker....I was just very wary jacking up the engine and the removal of the old pump with the tool...When I was pressing the old pump out it didn't half go with a bang when it broke the taper! Only addition I can add to the how to's is I used a spark plug socket on the 21mm sprocket nut, this lets you use a spanner on the sockets hex drive rather than trying to fit on a ratchet handle. Any way, all fitted and no leaks.... The Rover lives on! Many thanks to all who have contributed to the forum and how to,s I used, I would not have been able to take it on without the help. Happy new year all!�� Last edited by howardf; 30th January 2018 at 16:43..

3rd January 2018, 01:47	#2
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,795 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Howard. Glad to hear you are all sorted, hopefully you will repair the pump you took of if so below are a couple of links for the seals etc cheers Arctic. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...19.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CP1-Unive....c100011.m1850 __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 21st January 2019 at 21:38..

25th January 2018, 08:08	#5
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,572 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	You only need the one tool - it holds the intermediate sprocket which drives the pump, and also the camshafts, in place whilst the pump is removed. It also allows you to break the taper on the pump shaft. Timing isn't an issue as long as the sprocket stays in place, and the pump itself isn't timed so nothing to worry about there.