New clutch..dual mass or solid flywheel???

mechnophobe · 2nd August 2012, 15:32

Hi all.

Can anybody give me advice as to when I need a new clutch, should I get dual mass flywheel, or the solid? Also has anyone had any dealings with 'techniclutch' on ebay for this kit??

chipsceola · 2nd August 2012, 16:07

Thre is a previous thread dealing with this very question, general opinion was to stick with OEM dual mass flywheel, am sure a search will find it for you.
Chips

bramblp · 2nd August 2012, 20:06

I think the main problem is long term strain to the crank shaft

tambour · 3rd August 2012, 09:45

Hi all

This is my first post. I haven't got the time yet to introduce myself but I willl do it soon.

You will all please excuse my english, as My 75 looks like yours in a mirror and drives on the wrong side of roads. (Yes I'm French! Nobody's perfect!)

So don't hesitate to correct me if necessary! It will be welcome.

I reply to this thread, as I've purchased from techniclutch an fitted this kit on my CDT :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-MG-Z...item3cc1087147

But i payed it £299! (there was 2 similar kits on Ebay, one at £299 and the other at £699, so I called them and they told me it was an error, both were the same!
So they sold mine at £299 and then changed the Ebay price after my purchase!

(I wouln't have bought it at 699 as they have a similar kit including a reinforced DMF at £699)

Note : very good and easy comm with TC, even for a french guy, by mail or tel.

I didn't fit the solid flywhell, as my DMF was still in very good conditions when i checked it (145000 Km)
So I prefered keeping the DMF to protect engine and gearbox and keep transmission smooth.

NB : the CSC is not the model shown on the pic / looks idem OEM

My CDT has a digiservice remap + synergy 2 + BCV. I don't know exactly what power and torque I've got, but the original clutch was slipping.
I found plate worned at 50% and plate springs half crushed

The parts of this kit seem exactly the same as OEM ones except the color of the pressure plate (red) , and the friction material of the driven plate.

No pb with it since, the cluth never slips or judder even on high torque or towing. I made 12000 Km since.

An advice : change the sleeve assembly-guide / part UTL 100080

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-UTL100080 ) / £15.64

Mine was totally scratched and the CSC jammed on it and the clutch pedal was very, very hard / Pedal is now as soft as new!

Will post pics soon

kkcat75 · 3rd August 2012, 22:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by tambour

Hi all

This is my first post. I haven't got the time yet to introduce myself but I willl do it soon.

You will all please excuse my english, as My 75 looks like yours in a mirror and drives on the wrong side of roads. (Yes I'm French! Nobody's perfect!)

So don't hesitate to correct me if necessary! It will be welcome.

I reply to this thread, as I've purchased from techniclutch an fitted this kit on my CDT :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-MG-Z...item3cc1087147

But i payed it £299! (there was 2 similar kits on Ebay, one at £299 and the other at £699, so I called them and they told me it was an error, both were the same!
So they sold mine at £299 and then changed the Ebay price after my purchase!

(I wouln't have bought it at 699 as they have a similar kit including a reinforced DMF at £699)

Note : very good and easy comm with TC, even for a french guy, by mail or tel.

I didn't fit the solid flywhell, as my DMF was still in very good conditions when i checked it (145000 Km)
So I prefered keeping the DMF to protect engine and gearbox and keep transmission smooth.

NB : the CSC is not the model shown on the pic / looks idem OEM

My CDT has a digiservice remap + synergy 2 + BCV. I don't know exactly what power and torque I've got, but the original clutch was slipping.
I found plate worned at 50% and plate springs half crushed

The parts of this kit seem exactly the same as OEM ones except the color of the pressure plate (red) , and the friction material of the driven plate.

No pb with it since, the cluth never slips or judder even on high torque or towing. I made 12000 Km since.

An advice : change the sleeve assembly-guide / part UTL 100080

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-UTL100080 ) / £15.64

Mine was totally scratched and the CSC jammed on it and the clutch pedal was very, very hard / Pedal is now as soft as new!

Will post pics soon

Well done , at long last some positive feedback on a Solid Flywheel. Techniclutch offered me one last March and after toing and froing as well as ignoring my mechanic I avoided the solid and bought the DMF. Is there any vibration on engagement etc. Surely there's some downside. I just want to feel I did the right thing

Mike Noc · 3rd August 2012, 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkcat75

Well done , at long last some positive feedback on a Solid Flywheel. Techniclutch offered me one last March and after toing and froing as well as ignoring my mechanic I avoided the solid and bought the DMF. Is there any vibration on engagement etc. Surely there's some downside. I just want to feel I did the right thing

Errr I don't think so - Tambour didn't fit the solid flywheel.

For what it's worth I think you did the right thing.

Mike

tambour · 4th August 2012, 10:17

I did NOT fit the solid flywheel. I bought this kit because I could have the kit for £299. (price error on the bay) In fact, I did not pay the flywheel.

As i said, my DMF was still OK. But if it hadn't had been the case , I think I would not have fitted the solid one.

Fitted behind a good DMF, the original driven plate springs had been half crushed. What would it be if there wasn't the damping action of the DMF? Particularly on tuned engines!

"Crack!!!!shaft"?

kkcat75 · 6th August 2012, 10:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Errr I don't think so - Tambour didn't fit the solid flywheel.

For what it's worth I think you did the right thing.

Mike

My bad!!!
Only looked at link to clutch kit on ebay.
Should have read to end of post.

mh007 · 6th August 2012, 11:33

Definately stick with the DMF !

philou · 13th January 2014, 11:57

Hi,
Just wondering if you need to change clutch plate and cover when fitting DMF as my car was converted to Solid flywheel before I bought it but it wasn't working fine. Therefore I converted it back to DMF keeping existing clutch plate and cover but I can't put gears in when engine running (after many bleeding). That's why i'm wondering if I should have fitted specific DMF clutch plate and/ or cover. Could have smthg to do with different thickness between Solid and DMF ? hope I can get the right advise. thank youu.

2nd August 2012, 15:32	#1
mechnophobe Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Skelmersdale. Posts: 68 Thanks: 39 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	New clutch..dual mass or solid flywheel??? Hi all. Can anybody give me advice as to when I need a new clutch, should I get dual mass flywheel, or the solid? Also has anyone had any dealings with 'techniclutch' on ebay for this kit??

2nd August 2012, 20:06	#3
bramblp Loves to post Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Dublin Posts: 470 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts	I think the main problem is long term strain to the crank shaft __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

13th January 2014, 11:57	#10
philou Newbie 2 X saloon's Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Herne bay Posts: 28 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	from Solid back to DMF , does it need specific clutch plate and cover ? Hi, Just wondering if you need to change clutch plate and cover when fitting DMF as my car was converted to Solid flywheel before I bought it but it wasn't working fine. Therefore I converted it back to DMF keeping existing clutch plate and cover but I can't put gears in when engine running (after many bleeding). That's why i'm wondering if I should have fitted specific DMF clutch plate and/ or cover. Could have smthg to do with different thickness between Solid and DMF ? hope I can get the right advise. thank youu.

2nd August 2012, 16:07	#2
chipsceola This is my second home Jaguar XF 3.0D Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 4,364 Thanks: 119 Thanked 509 Times in 426 Posts	Thre is a previous thread dealing with this very question, general opinion was to stick with OEM dual mass flywheel, am sure a search will find it for you. Chips

3rd August 2012, 09:45	#4
tambour Regular poster 2002 Rover 75 CDT Club & 1999 Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Aix en Provence (France) Posts: 64 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi all This is my first post. I haven't got the time yet to introduce myself but I willl do it soon. You will all please excuse my english, as My 75 looks like yours in a mirror and drives on the wrong side of roads. (Yes I'm French! Nobody's perfect!) So don't hesitate to correct me if necessary! It will be welcome. I reply to this thread, as I've purchased from techniclutch an fitted this kit on my CDT : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-MG-Z...item3cc1087147 But i payed it £299! (there was 2 similar kits on Ebay, one at £299 and the other at £699, so I called them and they told me it was an error, both were the same! So they sold mine at £299 and then changed the Ebay price after my purchase! (I wouln't have bought it at 699 as they have a similar kit including a reinforced DMF at £699) Note : very good and easy comm with TC, even for a french guy, by mail or tel. I didn't fit the solid flywhell, as my DMF was still in very good conditions when i checked it (145000 Km) So I prefered keeping the DMF to protect engine and gearbox and keep transmission smooth. NB : the CSC is not the model shown on the pic / looks idem OEM My CDT has a digiservice remap + synergy 2 + BCV. I don't know exactly what power and torque I've got, but the original clutch was slipping. I found plate worned at 50% and plate springs half crushed The parts of this kit seem exactly the same as OEM ones except the color of the pressure plate (red) , and the friction material of the driven plate. No pb with it since, the cluth never slips or judder even on high torque or towing. I made 12000 Km since. An advice : change the sleeve assembly-guide / part UTL 100080 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-UTL100080 ) / £15.64 Mine was totally scratched and the CSC jammed on it and the clutch pedal was very, very hard / Pedal is now as soft as new! Will post pics soon

4th August 2012, 10:17	#7
tambour Regular poster 2002 Rover 75 CDT Club & 1999 Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Aix en Provence (France) Posts: 64 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I did NOT fit the solid flywheel. I bought this kit because I could have the kit for £299. (price error on the bay) In fact, I did not pay the flywheel. As i said, my DMF was still OK. But if it hadn't had been the case , I think I would not have fitted the solid one. Fitted behind a good DMF, the original driven plate springs had been half crushed. What would it be if there wasn't the damping action of the DMF? Particularly on tuned engines! "Crack!!!!shaft"?

6th August 2012, 11:33	#9
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	Definately stick with the DMF !