Defeated!

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by oscarsaudio

The slave looks as though it could be the original ? I would also be concerned that the clutch is original if an AP one , I only say this as both my slave and clutch were original items and although the clutch would probably have lasted another 20,000 miles I wasn't going to risk having to do the job again anytime soon.

It is indeed an original - the factory fitted items had plastic pipework, anything after (including from XPart) had metal pipes.

[SirRustalot]

The basket and friction plate are as new. Apart from a bit of dust (as expected) it's all good. The slave fell victim to the 'fall apart and melt' syndrome. I suspect that the previous owner changed the clutch but felt that the slave was okay and left it. The car spent its last few years in Aberdeen where it's customary to do things on the cheap.

There's evidence that someone once loved BX04 but there's also evidence of bodging and corner-cutting.

However, I'm confident that the clutch basket etc is worth keeping. Should I have any doubt it would be folly to not replace it all. As it stands, I'm confident that she's good for another 100k miles or more. If I'm wrong, I now know exactly how to fix it.

The only difference I noted with the O/E slave and the replacement was steel hosing. And it still looked like it was made of chocolate. It's a bad idea, overall, and I wonder what the design engineers were thinking at the time. Were they on crack?

[DMGRS]

They aren't a strong design, however I still haven't had any of the B&B units back yet - although of course I've only been selling them for just over 2 years. Not long enough for any 'real world' comparisons.

The Master (in my opinion) was more of an issue, with OEM items only lasting months and costing £130+ a time. I'm glad we have the metal version available, finally.

[HenryD]

Originally Posted by SirRustalot

The basket and friction plate are as new. Apart from a bit of dust (as expected) it's all good. The slave fell victim to the 'fall apart and melt' syndrome. I suspect that the previous owner changed the clutch but felt that the slave was okay and left it. The car spent its last few years in Aberdeen where it's customary to do things on the cheap.

There's evidence that someone once loved BX04 but there's also evidence of bodging and corner-cutting.

However, I'm confident that the clutch basket etc is worth keeping. Should I have any doubt it would be folly to not replace it all. As it stands, I'm confident that she's good for another 100k miles or more. If I'm wrong, I now know exactly how to fix it.

The only difference I noted with the O/E slave and the replacement was steel hosing. And it still looked like it was made of chocolate. It's a bad idea, overall, and I wonder what the design engineers were thinking at the time. Were they on crack?

On the picture that you posted of the clutch a couple of pages back the fingers look quite damaged to me,I would be very dubious of using any of that again,it's just too much work too pull it all apart again(and yes I have done one)

[jacques schiddt]

Originally Posted by SirRustalot

The basket and friction plate are as new. Apart from a bit of dust (as expected) it's all good. The slave fell victim to the 'fall apart and melt' syndrome. I suspect that the previous owner changed the clutch but felt that the slave was okay and left it. The car spent its last few years in Aberdeen where it's customary to do things on the cheap.

There's evidence that someone once loved BX04 but there's also evidence of bodging and corner-cutting.

However, I'm confident that the clutch basket etc is worth keeping. Should I have any doubt it would be folly to not replace it all. As it stands, I'm confident that she's good for another 100k miles or more. If I'm wrong, I now know exactly how to fix it.

The only difference I noted with the O/E slave and the replacement was steel hosing. And it still looked like it was made of chocolate. It's a bad idea, overall, and I wonder what the design engineers were thinking at the time. Were they on crack?

So, bearing in mind that I am potentially about to embark on a change of clutch/slave/master, would you still recommend that I farm it out and drink tea whilst I wait for the job to be done?

JS.

[SirRustalot]

Yes. Get someone else to do it.

RE: Clutch. 'Fingers' are okay. It's just a poor photo taken with an even poorer phone/camera.

[bubs]

when you put the new slave in check that the spring is seated correctly. I failed to do this on mine and it locked the slave up less than 200 miles later, resulting in the whole lot coming out again. When i got a replacement the spring on that wasn't seated correctly either!

[SirRustalot]

After a fair bit of work (I'm still at it - taking a break) I've decided to put together a step-by-step guide to slave cylinder replacement. I outline this as someone with a lot of experience, a vast set of professional tools and a steely determination to do it myself and also to save money.

Step #1.

Get someone else to do it.

Step # 2.

Pay them.

Step #3.

Enjoy the forthcoming week/fortnight that it will have taken you otherwise.

[Dashiel]

i swear by plus gas (or similar cracking spray) and a cup of tea.
that's how long it takes to loosen rust.
Wd40 is good as a rust preventative and that's it.Spend £3 more and get a proper rust cracking spray.
tighten the bolt a little first to break the rust seal too.
then get a long tool and hammer on it at first with your palm to get the bolt moving.
use a good set of six point hex sockets and a breaker bar.
extra long spanners are good too.
and a flex head wrench for the lower arm bolts.
take your time.
you are loosening bolts that may have been tightened 14 years ago on the longbridge line by someone with a power tool.
if there is anything i would advise its patience, be methodical and don't get flustered.
I've learnt the hard way.

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by Dashiel

i swear by plus gas (or similar cracking spray) and a cup of tea.
that's how long it takes to loosen rust.
Wd40 is good as a rust preventative and that's it.Spend £3 more and get a proper rust cracking spray.
tighten the bolt a little first to break the rust seal too.
then get a long tool and hammer on it at first with your palm to get the bolt moving.
use a good set of six point hex sockets and a breaker bar.
extra long spanners are good too.
and a flex head wrench for the lower arm bolts.
take your time.
you are loosening bolts that may have been tightened 14 years ago on the longbridge line by someone with a power tool.
if there is anything i would advise its patience, be methodical and don't get flustered.
I've learnt the hard way.

And, not to forget, when assembling, use an anti cease compound.
You might just be the person to take it apart the next time too.
I just removed the spark plugs from a car that has been standing for more than 25 years.
A breeze, Copper Slip!