Clutch gone soft and gears difficult to engage - Page 6

EastPete · 22nd February 2016, 17:43

I have just been out and taken the battery box off - a couple of interesting things:

- the pipes coming out of the metal slave are very close together, with the bleed nipple resting against the pipe going to the quick release connector.

-The quick release connector seems to be resting up close to the bottom edge of the metal battery box/fuel filter bracket.

I wonder if there is a 'kick' through the pipework as you change gear and this is causing these pipes to vibrate against each other or the connector against the battery box, giving the funny noise ?

I am thinking of making up some sleeves to go round the pipe work where it comes out of the gearbox and possibly round the quick release connector. I could use some 6mm Dodomat soundproofing mat (heat resistant) and cable ties to do this. I have some central heating lagging tubing which would fit very nicely over the connector, but I am not sure if the engine bay would get too hot for this (it goes over hot water pipes in the house OK).

Any thoughts, folks ?

Pete

FrenchMike · 22nd February 2016, 17:59

Always a good precaution preventing vibrations and rubbings .

I beleive the temperature is less than 60 deg on the box ...

EastPete · 22nd February 2016, 18:45

I have locked up the garage for the night (it's getting a bit cold out there now), so we'll try the pedal test tomorrow with my 'better half' at the helm.

The grommet that the two pipes go throw on the bell housing is there, but looks a bit tatty with the holes much larger than the pipes - I might get a new one from Rimmers to see if that helps (they only cost a couple of quid).

Cheers

Pete

FrenchMike · 22nd February 2016, 19:04

two lenghs of splited rubber or vinyl tube 9mm of diametre will do the job

Moodster020 · 22nd February 2016, 19:28

If you get caught out on the road with the clutch pedal on the floor ~Just put the tip of your foot on the side of the clutch pedal & wiggle it back & forth around 3 times. Firms it up to use as normal then -afterwards make sure the pedal reservoir is topped up with Dot4 fluid as well. BTW, i've been using my car in this predicament for over a year now..!

EastPete · 23rd February 2016, 17:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGJohn

Yes, here's one. Get someone to depress the Clutch Pedal up and down whilst you observe those hoses to-from the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

There should be a specially shaped Grommet where both Slave Cylinder Tubes exit the Bell Housing location.

We did the pedal press test today - no obvious sign of movement but perhaps we are just getting some vibration coming up the pipework when the engine is running and the clutch release bearing is in contact with the pressure plate -(i.e: when the pedal is depressed). I am experimenting with sound insulation/padding round the copper pipe and connector near the battery box bracket. I'll perhaps post a separate thread on this issue if these measures are successful, rather than hijacking this thread any further !

Pete

22nd February 2016, 17:43	#51
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I have just been out and taken the battery box off - a couple of interesting things: - the pipes coming out of the metal slave are very close together, with the bleed nipple resting against the pipe going to the quick release connector. -The quick release connector seems to be resting up close to the bottom edge of the metal battery box/fuel filter bracket. I wonder if there is a 'kick' through the pipework as you change gear and this is causing these pipes to vibrate against each other or the connector against the battery box, giving the funny noise ? I am thinking of making up some sleeves to go round the pipe work where it comes out of the gearbox and possibly round the quick release connector. I could use some 6mm Dodomat soundproofing mat (heat resistant) and cable ties to do this. I have some central heating lagging tubing which would fit very nicely over the connector, but I am not sure if the engine bay would get too hot for this (it goes over hot water pipes in the house OK). Any thoughts, folks ? Pete

22nd February 2016, 17:59	#52
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Always a good precaution preventing vibrations and rubbings . I beleive the temperature is less than 60 deg on the box ...

22nd February 2016, 18:45	#53
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I have locked up the garage for the night (it's getting a bit cold out there now), so we'll try the pedal test tomorrow with my 'better half' at the helm. The grommet that the two pipes go throw on the bell housing is there, but looks a bit tatty with the holes much larger than the pipes - I might get a new one from Rimmers to see if that helps (they only cost a couple of quid). Cheers Pete

22nd February 2016, 19:04	#54
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	two lenghs of splited rubber or vinyl tube 9mm of diametre will do the job

22nd February 2016, 19:28	#55
Moodster020 Loves to post MGZT CDT Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 272 Thanks: 11 Thanked 48 Times in 32 Posts	If you get caught out on the road with the clutch pedal on the floor ~Just put the tip of your foot on the side of the clutch pedal & wiggle it back & forth around 3 times. Firms it up to use as normal then -afterwards make sure the pedal reservoir is topped up with Dot4 fluid as well. BTW, i've been using my car in this predicament for over a year now..!