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Old 23rd May 2018, 11:59   #1
win2Kuser
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Default 2002 CDT Saloon Auto - Fuel pumps not working.

Hi,
Around a couple of weeks ago, my car began having problems starting, the engine would crank, but it was dry. Turing the ignition off and then on again would do the trick and away she went. This continued for a few days, and to be honest I didn't really think much of it, I've not long got rid of a Fiat and that sort of thing was par for the course lol

Around a week ago, I realised that when I first turned the ignition on, I couldn't hear the under bonnet fuel pump, then after turning off then on again, it would start whining, and she would start.

Fast forward to now, and it's completely given up the ghost.

Here's what I've tried so far;

- Checked the UBP connections and there is no power.
- Checked all the fuses under the glove box and also the fuse box under the bonnet.
- Checked what I think is the fuel pump relay (green relay sat on top of the black webasto relay which are located on the top of the fuse box), and it's switching perfectly fine. There are a couple of other relays in this area and they check out okay too.
- Plugged lappy in and scanned for diagnostic errors, nothing listed.
- Directly connected the UBP to the battery and it runs, but the car won't start.
- I've checked the plenum and ecu and it is dry, no leaves and no sign of any water at all.
- Unplugged the connections on the ecu, sprayed some contact cleaner in and reconnected.

Can't find anything else obvious
There appears to be an additional bit of wiring on the fuse box, 3 extra fuses which connect to the relays. I'll put up a pic of it.

Any ideas anyone?

Many thanks in advance.
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Old 23rd May 2018, 12:15   #2
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/2epgi9pp4v...20Box.jpg?dl=0

This is the fuse box and additional wiring...

Last edited by win2Kuser; 23rd May 2018 at 12:17.. Reason: pic didn't work...
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Old 23rd May 2018, 12:40   #3
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Take a look HERE

And once you've checked all of that, and if you still have no joy, I can test your ECM for you

Brian
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Old 23rd May 2018, 13:32   #4
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Thanks Brian

Do I need to check the cables whilst the ecu is plugged in, i.e. insert a pin into the wire and test it for continuity, or do I unplug the harnesses first?

Thanks
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Old 23rd May 2018, 15:15   #5
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Originally Posted by win2Kuser View Post
Thanks Brian

Do I need to check the cables whilst the ecu is plugged in, i.e. insert a pin into the wire and test it for continuity, or do I unplug the harnesses first?

Thanks
Don't pin the insulation, ever

This will only lead to more problems down the line, just unplug the relevant connectors and meter from the plug ends, I have some old Molex headers which I use for the job, but a small dressmakers pin won't spread the contact

Brian
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Old 23rd May 2018, 18:50   #6
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Thanks Brian,
I followed that, and I get 12v on both t86 and t87, and I get continuity on both 30 to p1 and 85 to p9.

Does that mean that there is a break somewhere between the ecu and the fuel pump relay?

Thanks as always
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Old 23rd May 2018, 20:06   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by win2Kuser View Post
Thanks Brian,
I followed that, and I get 12v on both t86 and t87, and I get continuity on both 30 to p1 and 85 to p9.

Does that mean that there is a break somewhere between the ecu and the fuel pump relay?

Thanks as always
No, as you have already supplied 12v directly to the pump and it runs but the car won't start, I suspect an internal defect in the ECM.

I can certainly test and if necessary repair your unit, or in the worst case scenario supply a service exchange ECM as I carry NNN100720SR on the shelf.

Let me know if you want it testing, and we can take it from there.

Brian
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Old 23rd May 2018, 21:51   #8
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Most appreciated Brian.
Without forums like this, there would be a lot less R75's on the road - I would have most likely just scrapped this car, it's becoming a money pit as it is. For the odd times that it runs well, it's a perfect drive. If I can keep it going for a reasonable amount though, I will

Someone I know is breaking a RR TD4 which I believe use the same or similar ecu's.
If it matched the part number and I plugged it in, would I then need to get the car re-programmed to match the vin stored in the ecu? Could this be done in toaf copying the vin from module to module?

If it's not that easy, I'll have to run it past the boss first before making a decision on sending it in for testing, I'm still in her bad books as it is, she wanted a ford focus or C-Max, I saw this 75 and couldn't say no lol
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Old 23rd May 2018, 22:01   #9
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Originally Posted by win2Kuser View Post
Most appreciated Brian.
Without forums like this, there would be a lot less R75's on the road - I would have most likely just scrapped this car, it's becoming a money pit as it is. For the odd times that it runs well, it's a perfect drive. If I can keep it going for a reasonable amount though, I will

Someone I know is breaking a RR TD4 which I believe use the same or similar ecu's.
If it matched the part number and I plugged it in, would I then need to get the car re-programmed to match the vin stored in the ecu? Could this be done in toaf copying the vin from module to module?

If it's not that easy, I'll have to run it past the boss first before making a decision on sending it in for testing, I'm still in her bad books as it is, she wanted a ford focus or C-Max, I saw this 75 and couldn't say no lol
If only it were that easy......even T4 cannot reprogramme a secondhand ECM, and I know TOAF certainly can't either.

However I have the technology, and it won't break the bank I guarantee

Brian
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Old 24th May 2018, 11:32   #10
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Take Brian up on his offer, even a used set will cause VIN mismatch and Brian knows his stuff
Mick
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Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings.

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