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13th April 2019, 21:11 | #21 |
I really should get out more.......
A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014
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Are you running a KV6 powered vehicle ?
If you are, here is something to check that only takes a moment - Remove the cover that the oil filler cap sit over, take a look with a torch if possible, and take a look at the gaps between the alloy manifold pipework at the "V" area. Is there a pool of coolant laying at the bottom ? If yes, then either the thermostat or it's seal may have let go, and the mist from the boiling coolant may have sprayed over the engine temperature sensor causing the panic at the dash panel gauge and red warning light to display. This being the case, the cause of the puddle underside is because the "V" section of the engine has a small drain / port hole allowing fluids to drain out. The hole is behind where the water pump housing is and the flow will end up on the road just by the inside of the drivers side front wheel. My ZT 190 has done this, the thermostat has sprung a leak at one of the connectors for a hose to fit on. Not enjoying the repair, but taking my time and cleaning everything up to a good state prior to re-assembly. Hope this may help you get to the bottom of your mystery ! |
13th April 2019, 22:22 | #22 | |
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Southern Slovakia Anything can happen in Formula 1 and usually does - Murray Walker 1999 Triumph Trophy 900, Saddlesore 1600, Iron Butt Riders Association #63720 2005 Rover 75 CDT Tourer MK2 |
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14th April 2019, 08:25 | #23 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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John,
Have you checked that your radiator cooling fan is working?
Please report back and put out of your head any thoughts of scrapping your Rover 75. We are here to help you fix it when your garage can't. Simon
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14th April 2019, 08:51 | #24 | |
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The issue I have is that I had to abandon the car 5 miles from where I live, so checking things is a no go. However, the fan has been working for sure, it's even on in a video I made of the coolant leaking out of the car, which hopefully you can see here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vUK-2tlUIo The fan certainly seemed to be working fine up until these issues and would kick in when the car was stopped, and like you say when the heater was on without pressing the 'auto' button, or whatever button it is called, I forget. |
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14th April 2019, 08:57 | #25 | |
Posted a thing or two
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A leak that bad and the garage can’t find it🤨 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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14th April 2019, 09:11 | #26 |
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14th April 2019, 11:12 | #27 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
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Hi John,
Thanks for your reply. First a bit of philosophy .. Quote:
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Once you've got the car towed or recovered back to your house I would still recommend that you check the slow speed by doing the demist test. You'll kick yourself if you find that all it is is a failed resistor. I agree with Zedhed. Forget that garage. Fill up the coolant, jack up the front of the car, remove the engine undershield, start the engine and use the most powerful tool you possess: observation. You must be able to trace a coolant leak of the kind shown in your video. Simon
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14th April 2019, 11:25 | #28 | |
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14th April 2019, 11:47 | #29 | |
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14th April 2019, 16:14 | #30 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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My thought process was that if the resistor is open circuit causing loss of the slow speed, the temperature would rise to 112 degrees C before the fast speed was triggered. If, for whatever reason, the fan is unable to lower the temperature then the pressure relief valve in the expansion tank cap might open and expel a large amount of coolant.
The test is easy and quick and will answer your question. Quote:
So the answer to your question is: how self-disciplined are you? Simon
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