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5th July 2020, 11:33 | #31 | ||||
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The only 1500Nm one I can find is this but it's a 1/4" drive. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milwaukee-M.../dp/B00I3POGXQ Quote:
The King Dick won't work because I don't have a space saver wheel. Quote:
£214 is less than I thought it would be but none of my sockets are 3/4". I could buy a 3/4" 32mm just for the hub nuts but I'd have to resort to a 3/4-1/2" reducer for every other size from then on - or buy a full set of 3/4" sockets. I don't like reducers so the price shoots up once again. Assuming I've spotted them all, a quick trawl through Rave shows these are the highest torques on a 75, in descending order: 1) Front drive shaft nut 350Nm 2) Rear hub nut 210Nm 3) Crankshaft pulley 205Nm 4) Rear damper to trailing arm bolt 155Nm 5) Front lower arm bush housing to subframe bolts 150Nm 6) Road wheel bolts 125Nm No1 is the only one my existing torque wrenches can't cope with. If I had the money I'd buy the 3/4" Norbar and a full set of sockets. To do that now though would mean ditching the sandblasting*, which would be a mistake since the whole point of all this is to kill rust. * Or the new nuts & bolts order, which hasn't gone to Rimmers yet. |
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5th July 2020, 11:37 | #32 | |
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Where did you get that tube from Steve? The only steel tube I've got is the handle off a 3-ton trolley jack - I don't think it'll cope with 350Nm though, the force will probably open the end out and render it useless. |
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5th July 2020, 11:52 | #33 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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I can't see the need for a reducer or a full set of 3/4 in. drive sockets. Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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5th July 2020, 12:08 | #34 | |
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Price = £214 plus say £16 for the 32mm socket = £230 just to torque two nuts. The alternatives are either: a) buy a reducer to use my existing 1/2" sockets on the Norbar, or b) buy a full set of 3/4" sockets and use those with the Norbar. Price - a) is cheaper than b) but both would enable the Norbar to be used on a whole range of nut sizes. |
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5th July 2020, 12:18 | #35 |
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Idea for undoing the hub nuts.
NB. The car is on blocks. A) Jack the front end up so it's an inch off the front blocks. B) Place a 12" breaker bar with 32mm socket on one hub nut. C) Chock the handle end of the bar with a sleeper (with bar almost horizontal) D) Put something smooth between the sleeper and the handle (e.g. a thin sheet of plastic just to aid sliding). E) Pray. F) Let the jack down suddenly. Obviously I'd need to jam the brakes on somehow since I can't stand on the pedal and let the jack down at the same time. Last edited by Blink; 5th July 2020 at 12:24.. |
5th July 2020, 12:21 | #36 | |||||
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Simon you have exceeded my expectations of you once more, but then again they were not particularly high in the first instance............ |
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5th July 2020, 12:32 | #37 | ||
This is my second home
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Personally I never use a torque wrench for undoing anything, it just isn't good engineering practice. And funnily enough I can easily tighten a left hand threaded fastener using a right handed torque wrench too - just wondered if you had a method for doing so. Quote:
I would be wary of using reducers and smaller drives as you risk breaking them if the nut is super tight. The last thing you want is for something to let go when you have all your weight on it. I bought my 3/4 drive torque wrench second hand on ebay - less than £30. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 5th July 2020 at 12:37.. |
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5th July 2020, 12:41 | #38 | |
This is my second home
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Then get a garage to tighten it. It would take them all of 5 seconds and cost very little.--- |
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5th July 2020, 12:54 | #39 |
This is my second home
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Any scrap metal yard will sell you a piece of tube. ( old scaffold tube. ) Will cost peanuts as they sell by weight.--
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5th July 2020, 12:56 | #40 | |
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As an alternative to the whole scheme place a trolley jack under the bottom ball joint, to provide reaction to your action, employ an assistant to press the brake pedal, then undo the nut either with a suitable breaker bar and socket, or the King Dick spanner I linked to earlier in the thread. There is no flex or wind up in that particular spanner, and you can stand on the end using the ball of your foot. When it comes to fastening the new nut, this looks to be a reasonable candidate for the job LINK it seems rather pointless to make the investment in a brand new tool you will use a handful of times, and a socket HERE The socket is a standard one, as you will find most 3/4" drive impact sockets have a wall thickness that makes it impossible to use for this job Brian |
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