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18th September 2020, 11:47 | #11 |
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When I had the typhoon done first time with MIJ they were originally going to try and work around the fuel cooler, but came up with the solution of removing it from it's large plastic housing and mounting it higher up out of the way. I done the same myself on redfive prior to taking the car to them to have the exhaust done.
The typhoon has had the cooler like this for about 6 and a half years now and has been fine. Only issue I had initially was when the cooler was first mounted in it's new location the inlet and outlet pipes to the cooler were kinked which prevented fuel from passing through easily, which was causing the car to cut out. So just make sure you don't end up bending the fuel pipes at tight angles when doing this. |
18th September 2020, 12:52 | #12 |
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The fuel cooler also fits nicely on the side panel (behind the bumper) should you need more room 😀
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18th September 2020, 13:23 | #13 |
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Thanks guys, I was puzzling over it as there is an 'air scoop/deflector' on the lower suspension arm so I though if it had been moved the reduction in air flow would cause issues - but after 6 1/2 year I guess it will be fine.
This is probably a silly question but I take it MIJ are in the Essex Area? Nope just googled them - walsall.
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18th September 2020, 14:16 | #14 |
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When I done some research on the fuel cooler back when I had my typhoon's exhaust done by MIJ, particularly on the BMW forums as they have a similar cooler on their diesels, the general answer around the fuel cooler was it's not really needed apart from on very hot days which we very rarely have in the UK (like around 30oc days).
Many on the BMW forums deleted it completely when they had issues such as fuel leaks there or wanted to get rid of it to make space for mods, however removing it completely isn't advised on our cars due to our fuel tanks being plastic whereas the BMW ones are metal. Fuel isn't always constantly passed via the cooler, there's a inline thermostat valve which opens to allow the fuel to pass through the cooler once it reaches a certain temperature. There's a diagram on how it works on here somewhere in a old thread. On my typhoon there was a slight issue when the fuel cooler was moved where the inlet and outlet fuel pipes to the cooler got bent at sharp angles which prevented fuel from flowing through the cooler. I had my exhaust done in early Feb of 2014 from memory, and the issue wasn't noticed until about 3 months later when we had the first of the warmer weather, where the engine would suddenly keep cutting out under hard acceleration. Went through checking all sorts of things that could have been causing it for a good couple months before Mike Noc I think it was advised me to check the fuel cooler for any issues there (after explaining how the fuel cooler works as I'd assumed the fuel returning to the tank was passed via the cooler at all times which wasn't the case). I've never found the fuel cooler to ever get particularly hot, it gets quite warm in the summer months but no where near as hot as the rad would get for example. + although the original housing is designed with an air scoop to run air to the cooler when the car's moving, what about when the car's stuck in traffic for long periods? There's no air getting scooped up through the cooler then. If it needed constant air through the cooler I would have thought some sort of mini electric fan would have been fitted there. So from my experiences and the research I done before hand, moving it to the position where I have is fine even though there's less air flow to it, but I wouldn't recommend removing it/bypassing it completely. |
18th September 2020, 14:21 | #15 |
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I removed the air deflector when I refurbed the rear suspension on my diesel, the lack of deflected air has not made a difference!
And if your diesel gets hot enough to melt the fuel tanks in our cars then that will be the least of your worries!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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18th September 2020, 14:32 | #16 |
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It's not soo much melting the tank, there were just some concerns about the heat being able to warp the tank. So just to be cautious I didn't bypass the cooler completely.
Here's the diagram for the fuel cooler https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=172055 |
18th September 2020, 14:34 | #17 | |
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Quote:
You would have to be well into the 100 deg territory to begin to warp the tank Rick, and that is with an empty tank! With fuel inside the temperature would have to be considerably higher to do any damage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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18th September 2020, 14:53 | #18 |
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Why did MG Rover both fitting them? recon it was just a "just in case" precaution? lol could have done without them with the amount of owners who'd had to deal with leaks around the coolers.
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