Coolant Leak Numpty Questions!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by vitesse

Or lift the two halves as one without disturbing the fuel lines other than disconnecting the long pipe up behind the battery box.

Hi Mike,

I did that too! Apologies if my earlier description was unclear.

Simon

[phenonix]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Regarding the fuel rail, I'd recommend disconnecting the supply pipe just after it rises from the tank into the engine bay. It's easier to separate than the joint over the LH bank which, according to some members' reports, is easily broken.
Also, I chose to lift the pipe off the injectors rather than removing the latter from the manifolds.

Simon

Thanks all for the tips, been a bit busy lately so intend to tackle this soon.


Sorry Simon,
is it possible to explain this a bit further to me, got my head around most everything except this bit, are there any other threads with pictures of what you mean?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by phenonix

... is it possible to explain this a bit further to me ... are there any other threads with pictures of what you mean?

I don't know of any pictures I'm afraid but you'll see where the fuel supply hose meets the solid pipe at the rear of the engine compartment. Just squeeze the two tabs together by hand and the joint will separate. This is the MG Rover method and safer than the Haynes alternative. Incidentally, I have never experienced any residual fuel pressure but it's best to wrap the connection in a rag just in case.

To leave the injectors in place (they're very tight), slide off the little clips securing the fuel rail to them. They all release towards the 'V' except cylinders 4 & 6 which are withdrawn away from it. Be careful not to lose them! The fuel rail can then be lifted off the injectors whilst overcoming some resistance from the 'O' ring seals. There may be a slight fuel leak.

Joe, I'm still concerned that for "a bloke who has never looked into an engine before" you are tackling a complicated job here. I think you'd be wise to seek the practical help of a friend local to you with engine maintenance experience.

Simon

[phenonix]

Thanks for your concern Simon.
I'll go slow and if it gets to a part thats too much i'll stop and put it all back together, mostly i'm researching at the moment to see what it totally involves, i've get plenty of time on my hands now and will take it in small stages.

[phenonix]

How do these look?

First photo the far left of the photo is where i thought the leak was coming from, even dis-assembled it was still trickling coolant into the same part of the V, far right was not trickling, seems to be also build-up on the gasket around this area, does this confirm the gasket is the issue?

Second photo, is the red bits dried coolant, should i clean this out before re-assembling?
What else should I use to remove the old gaskets and clean the surfaces?

[SD1too]

Congratulations on the dismantling Joe!

Although I cannot expand thumbnail photos to look in detail, the gasket is certainly in a mess surrounding no. 1 cylinder and the light blue seal appears to be damaged. Have you any idea how this might have happened?

To answer your questions, yes, I always clean components before reassembly. I have an aerosol of this stuff, Victor Reinz gasket remover. Above all, don't use any sharp tools as the aluminium will be damaged.

When you refit the alloy manifold, be sure to tighten progressively the screws from the centre outwards finishing with a torque wrench. You don't want to compromise your new gasket and shorten its life. The setting is 25 Nm and no more!

Simon

[phenonix]

I've enlarged the pictures bit, no idea why one photo is showing upside down, tried a few times to fix it, no luck.
I have no idea how this happened, hoping members could shed some light on it?
Is there any engine components on that side that could cause damage to the seal from the outside, leaking inwards?
I'm purchasing a torque wrench and understand the tightening of the bolts in sequence.

[phenonix]

I was also getting low petrol milage , would this have been the cause?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by phenonix

I have no idea how this happened, hoping members could shed some light on it?

We can only guess of course but I wonder if someone before you has over-tightened the manifold screws thus compressing the gasket sealant to the point where it eventually failed.

Whenever I've renewed the manifold gaskets I've always observed the correct torque and I've never had a problem with them. I buy the MGR part and I don't paint them or add any additional sealing products.

Simon

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by SD1too

We can only guess of course but I wonder if someone before you has over-tightened the manifold screws thus compressing the gasket sealant to the point where it eventually failed.

Whenever I've renewed the manifold gaskets I've always observed the correct torque and I've never had a problem with them. I buy the MGR part and I don't paint them or add any additional sealing products.

Simon

Simon is always lucky. It seems.
I paint mine, with normal silver paint that you would use on a gate. Both sides.
That is an old trick, which also works on head gaskets.
The problem with the green original Rover seals are, that the paper will let water through, so the blue or green silicone line is absolutely useless.
As there are one water passage with water (high pressure) and one channel of the inlet (vacuum) very close to each other, the conditions are ideal for water to seep from the cooling system into the inlet and thus into the cylinders at the corners.
I have had several instances of that, it is, I would say, a common problem.
I have just looked at your pictures, and they confirm, again, what is stated above. The original gaskets are not up to the job. That is really simple!