Wishbone and rear bush replacement? - Page 2

roverbarmy · 11th April 2018, 16:20

Had an hour to spare this afternoon, so got underneath with the spanners, WD40 and a gas gun to check that I could get everything free before tackling the whole job and ending up stuck up in the air. I started with the pinch bolt, which was fairly rusty, so after a good wire brush and a soak of WD40, I sought out some good quality, well fitting spanners. Despite a good grunt, nothing was moving, so I wrapped a soaked cloth around the drive shaft rubber cover and started on the nut with the gas gun. After a bit of heating I tried again and it creaked and moved. A bit more WD40 and some back and forth with the spanners and the bolt came out. A further soak with WD40 on the hub, a dab of copperslip, then put the pinch bolt back in. Next, I moved onto the rear wishbone bush bolts. The two spanner extension did the trick and then the flexi 18mm ratchet spanner. I moved them out far enough to apply some oil to the threads and then back in again. Lastly the inner ball joint nut. Long breaker bar and socket soon had it moving, so off far enough to oil the thread and back in again. Just waiting for a bit warmer weather to get the front end well off the ground to do the whole job. Hopefully the joints will release from the hub and subframe (lots of WD40 sprayed on and around today). Not bad for a 67 year old with dodgy knees and hips!!! To be continued...

roverbarmy · 14th April 2018, 15:03

Finally got a break in the weather, so got cracking today. Up on the trolley jacks, axle stands in place and off we go. As I had already cracked, greased and oiled all the nuts and bolts, everything was soon loosened. A few solid belts on the subframe ball joint with the copper hammer had it moving, so moved on the splitting the hub joint. Not quite so easy but with some heat, leverage and thumping, it was very slowly on the move. Once out, the remaining, previously loosened bolts and nuts came out. That wasn't too bad, was it? Nobody warned me that the subframe ball joint wouldn't clear the sub frame due to fouling the drive shaft, so what to do?

The old grey matter started to engage. Drop the sub frame? No! Don't want to go there. Lift the hub? That might work but a bit wobbly when not attached. Put my spring compressors on the spring to shorten it and lift the hub? That also might work, so attached the spring compressors, lifting it until it almost cleared and dared not wind any more. A small amount of jacking on the base of the hub and just enough clearance. Old wishbone out and new wishbone into position ............... eventually. A pair of large mole grips on the rear bush to hold, whilst the bolts went in. Tighten up bolts and nuts, then wiggled the hub ball joint into position with a gentle tap on a piece of hardwood to make sure it was fully home to allow pinch bolt to slide in/grip. All nuts and bolts torqued up, spring compressors off, wheel back on and Bob's yer wotnot and Farny's yer thingamajig!

Thanks DMGRS for supplying the bits and to all for help and advice. The 67 year old is aching a bit but smiling a lot!

SD1too · 5th April 2021, 07:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Hardest part of the job is separating the inner wishbone taper joint from the subframe. I have always managed to crack this joint with a bearing puller ...

This is by far the most civilised way to do it and not expensive either using the Sykes Pickavant 0830 0000 twin leg adjustable puller.

I hope that this recommendation helps someone in the future.

Simon

roverbarmy · 5th April 2021, 07:58

Wow! 3 year thread revival! Is it three years since I did that job? Yes! It must be. A bad back and a couple of cruciate ligament damages later and would I do it again? Of course I would! Ooer! tempting fate now! MOT due in August!

Thanks for the heads up on the puller. I probably have one somewhere in the dark recesses of the garage or shed!

Ducati750cc · 5th April 2021, 09:22

If replacing the front arms or rear upper wishbones, I cut through either of them with an angle grinder or body saw at the small dia. section, it saves time and gives extra wriggle room for disassembly.

It doesn't improve fitting the new bits time though.

I was recently given a tourer in great condition, low mileage, with an MOT failure of rear upper wishbones and advisories on chassis and suspension component rust.

I've been taking photo's of the work and will post some frightening ( you never know what's out of sight ) before and afters when it's done.

Briefly, the advisory rust was just light but looked naughty and either scraped, wire brushed or needle gun scaler'd off, rust treated and underbody treatment applied.

The wishbone bolts didn't want to move, so chopping the wishbones made dropping the subframe easier and lighter.

Other things cropped up, none serious which I'll itemise when I post my saga.

11th April 2018, 16:20	#11
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,084 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Had an hour to spare this afternoon, so got underneath with the spanners, WD40 and a gas gun to check that I could get everything free before tackling the whole job and ending up stuck up in the air. I started with the pinch bolt, which was fairly rusty, so after a good wire brush and a soak of WD40, I sought out some good quality, well fitting spanners. Despite a good grunt, nothing was moving, so I wrapped a soaked cloth around the drive shaft rubber cover and started on the nut with the gas gun. After a bit of heating I tried again and it creaked and moved. A bit more WD40 and some back and forth with the spanners and the bolt came out. A further soak with WD40 on the hub, a dab of copperslip, then put the pinch bolt back in. Next, I moved onto the rear wishbone bush bolts. The two spanner extension did the trick and then the flexi 18mm ratchet spanner. I moved them out far enough to apply some oil to the threads and then back in again. Lastly the inner ball joint nut. Long breaker bar and socket soon had it moving, so off far enough to oil the thread and back in again. Just waiting for a bit warmer weather to get the front end well off the ground to do the whole job. Hopefully the joints will release from the hub and subframe (lots of WD40 sprayed on and around today). Not bad for a 67 year old with dodgy knees and hips!!! To be continued... __________________ Oil in my veins!

14th April 2018, 15:03	#12
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,084 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Finally got a break in the weather, so got cracking today. Up on the trolley jacks, axle stands in place and off we go. As I had already cracked, greased and oiled all the nuts and bolts, everything was soon loosened. A few solid belts on the subframe ball joint with the copper hammer had it moving, so moved on the splitting the hub joint. Not quite so easy but with some heat, leverage and thumping, it was very slowly on the move. Once out, the remaining, previously loosened bolts and nuts came out. That wasn't too bad, was it? Nobody warned me that the subframe ball joint wouldn't clear the sub frame due to fouling the drive shaft, so what to do? The old grey matter started to engage. Drop the sub frame? No! Don't want to go there. Lift the hub? That might work but a bit wobbly when not attached. Put my spring compressors on the spring to shorten it and lift the hub? That also might work, so attached the spring compressors, lifting it until it almost cleared and dared not wind any more. A small amount of jacking on the base of the hub and just enough clearance. Old wishbone out and new wishbone into position ............... eventually. A pair of large mole grips on the rear bush to hold, whilst the bolts went in. Tighten up bolts and nuts, then wiggled the hub ball joint into position with a gentle tap on a piece of hardwood to make sure it was fully home to allow pinch bolt to slide in/grip. All nuts and bolts torqued up, spring compressors off, wheel back on and Bob's yer wotnot and Farny's yer thingamajig! Thanks DMGRS for supplying the bits and to all for help and advice. The 67 year old is aching a bit but smiling a lot! __________________ Oil in my veins! Last edited by roverbarmy; 14th April 2018 at 15:06..

5th April 2021, 07:58	#14
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,084 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Wow! 3 year thread revival! Is it three years since I did that job? Yes! It must be. A bad back and a couple of cruciate ligament damages later and would I do it again? Of course I would! Ooer! tempting fate now! MOT due in August! Thanks for the heads up on the puller. I probably have one somewhere in the dark recesses of the garage or shed! __________________ Oil in my veins!

5th April 2021, 09:22	#15
Ducati750cc Loves to post Rover75 tourer Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Ashton Posts: 432 Thanks: 121 Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts	If replacing the front arms or rear upper wishbones, I cut through either of them with an angle grinder or body saw at the small dia. section, it saves time and gives extra wriggle room for disassembly. It doesn't improve fitting the new bits time though. I was recently given a tourer in great condition, low mileage, with an MOT failure of rear upper wishbones and advisories on chassis and suspension component rust. I've been taking photo's of the work and will post some frightening ( you never know what's out of sight ) before and afters when it's done. Briefly, the advisory rust was just light but looked naughty and either scraped, wire brushed or needle gun scaler'd off, rust treated and underbody treatment applied. The wishbone bolts didn't want to move, so chopping the wishbones made dropping the subframe easier and lighter. Other things cropped up, none serious which I'll itemise when I post my saga. __________________ Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.