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Old 6th May 2021, 15:47   #41
SD1too
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Smile The detective work continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by clf View Post
... are you sure they are M9?
That was a good question Alan. They're M10, but the spanner size has been increased from 15mm (OE) to 17mm (current). So I have bought two BZP nuts and reluctantly I'm going to have to get out the hacksaw.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr1100xx View Post
Moog droplinks from Euro Car Parts have the correct length threaded section ...
I've tracked these down and measured them. The threaded rod is 21mm long which is significantly shorter than the competition and yes, on the NS strut I can get a 17mm ring spanner over it! But on the OS I can't.
Why the difference? The strut is basically the same for both sides but with the ARB link mounting hole drilled in a different position. On the OS it is closer to the spring, hence the reduced clearance. In addition, these parts are not made to a precise tolerance.

I think you were very lucky with yours Stan!

Simon
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Old 6th May 2021, 15:54   #42
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Shouldn't be any difference in shock sizes,nor in the drop link so it might be your anti roll bar is twisted .
If the drop links are different lengths I would be returning them.
All gaps/distances should be identical on both sides.

Stan
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Old 6th May 2021, 16:21   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr1100xx View Post
Shouldn't be any difference in shock sizes,nor in the drop link so it might be your anti roll bar is twisted .
If the drop links are different lengths I would be returning them.
All gaps/distances should be identical on both sides.
Hi Stan,

Sorry, I haven't explained the situation very well. A photograph should help!



This is the OS strut. You can see the mounting hole for the ARB link on the left hand side. On the NS strut the hole is on the right.
The spring doesn't lie perfectly horizontally on its support, it rises gently upwards. If you measure the height of the ARB link's supporting channel, the left-hand side is shorter than the right, confirming that the spring wire is rising up a gradient. For two identical ARB links, this explains why there's clearance to fit a ring spanner on the right-hand mounting but not on the left.

I hope that's a clearer explanation.

Simon
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Old 6th May 2021, 17:04   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
That was a good question Alan. They're M10, but the spanner size has been increased from 15mm (OE) to 17mm (current). So I have bought two BZP nuts and reluctantly I'm going to have to get out the hacksaw.

I've tracked these down and measured them. The threaded rod is 21mm long which is significantly shorter than the competition and yes, on the NS strut I can get a 17mm ring spanner over it! But on the OS I can't.
Why the difference? The strut is basically the same for both sides but with the ARB link mounting hole drilled in a different position. On the OS it is closer to the spring, hence the reduced clearance. In addition, these parts are not made to a precise tolerance.

I think you were very lucky with yours Stan!

Simon

The problem is caused by the spring seats not being handed as such, they have two protrusions for the link seats for the hole to be drilled for the top link bolt, either protrusion depending on n/s or o/s, yet the first coil stop is in the same spot.


The result of this is that on the o/s leg, the bolt hole is approx. 90mm from the spring stop and the height between the link seat and the bottom of the first coil is approx. 20mm.


On the n/s leg the hole is on the opposite protrusion approx. 45 deg away from the o/s hole and approx. 160mm from the spring stop and due to the coil obviously rising it is approx. 25mm from the link seat to the bottom of the coil at that point, 5mm higher than the o/s.


The measurements are approx. and the angle I did by eyeball, but the difference isn't obvious until you have a pair of legs side by side.


Hope this helps, off to give the legs and some other bits and bobs a waft over with a couple of coats of epoxy primer.
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Old 6th May 2021, 17:08   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hi Stan,

Sorry, I haven't explained the situation very well. A photograph should help!



This is the OS strut. You can see the mounting hole for the ARB link on the left hand side. On the NS strut the hole is on the right.
The spring doesn't lie perfectly horizontally on its support, it rises gently upwards. If you measure the height of the ARB link's supporting channel, the left-hand side is shorter than the right, confirming that the spring wire is rising up a gradient. For two identical ARB links, this explains why there's clearance to fit a ring spanner on the right-hand mounting but not on the left.

I hope that's a clearer explanation.

Simon

Oi SD1.............you beat me to it and a picture is sometimes better than a thousand words.
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Old 6th May 2021, 19:11   #46
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Oi SD1.............you beat me to it ...

I'm just glad that we're singing from the same hymn sheet!

Simon
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Old 10th May 2021, 10:35   #47
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Default Problems solved, hopefully.

Hello everyone,

I've had to abandon the idea of shortening the mounting thread to allow the fitment of a ring spanner. It won't work on the right-hand strut as, due to only 18.5mm clearance below the spring, there would be nothing left for the Nylok nut to attach to. So I've abandoned that idea.

Alan's earlier suggestion seems to be the only solution; a crow's foot spanner and this one from Laser Tools looks promising particularly as it enables the use of a torque wrench.

Alan also came up with the safe solution for the exceptionally slim 5mm holding flats on the ball pin; a 16mm bicycle cone spanner. I'm going for this one which, at 2.5mm thick, will be just right.

Thank you Alan (clf).

I might be back later in the week if another problem crops up.

Simon
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Old 10th May 2021, 12:01   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hello everyone,



I've had to abandon the idea of shortening the mounting thread to allow the fitment of a ring spanner. It won't work on the right-hand strut as, due to only 18.5mm clearance below the spring, there would be nothing left for the Nylok nut to attach to. So I've abandoned that idea.



Alan's earlier suggestion seems to be the only solution; a crow's foot spanner and this one from Laser Tools looks promising particularly as it enables the use of a torque wrench.



Alan also came up with the safe solution for the exceptionally slim 5mm holding flats on the ball pin; a 16mm bicycle cone spanner. I'm going for this one which, at 2.5mm thick, will be just right.



Thank you Alan (clf).



I might be back later in the week if another problem crops up.



Simon
Why not an open end spanner? Push the threads through the hole, by hand turn the link, whilst holding the nut with the open ended spanner. Nip tight with the spanner

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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Old 10th May 2021, 16:46   #49
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Why not an open end spanner? .... Nip tight with the spanner.
It's the usual story Alan, the nut lies cosily shrouded (see my photo in post 43) and open ended spanners are too wide. I've tried it on the bench, you just can't get any decent rotation. Plus, the specified torque is 60Nm and that's much more than a "nip".

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 10th May 2021 at 16:48..
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Old 10th May 2021, 17:40   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
It's the usual story Alan, the nut lies cosily shrouded (see my photo in post 43) and open ended spanners are too wide. I've tried it on the bench, you just can't get any decent rotation. Plus, the specified torque is 60Nm and that's much more than a "nip".

Simon
I have done this a number of times now (only actually needed to once), the first time I did it I used an ordinary open ended spanner (turn the wheel to the right for the RHS and left for the LHS ). I have yet to use a torque wrench on it in situ. But think of it this way, wheels are supposed to be 120nm if I recall, and to get to that figure, a 'nip' is all that is required after it being tightened firmly, with a 24" torque wrench. So taking that as a guide, a 'nip' with a 8" spanner is going to be roughly 45nm.

But between its service, the position, and the nylock, as tight as you can make it will be more than enough (providing it is not flopping around obviously). The lower nut would be more of a concern, but it is easy.

The next pair I did, I cut and dressed the thread (was able to use the old original nut to 'dress' it), as I struggled to remove the first uncut one (the other side was still original). Then used a ratchet spanner with a flexi head to hold the nut whilst I twisted the link into it, 'nipping' it up with the crows foot at a slight angle. That took about an hour in total including getting the tools out.

The pair that are on now, were torqued to whatever rave suggested as they were fitted off the car, but the threads were cut to length to facilitate future removal. These were only replaced as the suspension was completely replaced.
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