Throttle cable adjustment v6 - Page 3

markb63 · 9th March 2010, 16:01

did mine sunday afternoon and it does feel more responsive , although a lot of trial and error is needed as i mine was ticking over on 4000 rpm, turned it to far , you just need to take up the slack , you will know if you have turned it to far as the pedal and cable will be really stiff oh and it sticks lol worth the messsing about imho

ceb · 9th March 2010, 17:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by markb63

did mine sunday afternoon and it does feel more responsive , although a lot of trial and error is needed as i mine was ticking over on 4000 rpm, turned it to far , you just need to take up the slack , you will know if you have turned it to far as the pedal and cable will be really stiff oh and it sticks lol worth the messsing about imho

Agreed. Drove mine to and from the garage today to have Kenlowe fan fitted, I think I lucked out on my first attempt as it's just a tad 'keener' on the throttle but tickover hasn't changed, also seems to pull slightly more enthusiastically but that may just be my imagination. As mentioned by everyone, worth doing.

ceb

markb63 · 9th March 2010, 18:04

deff not my imagination lol my throttle was dead for the first 1/2 inch or so

..... just a quick touch now and she picks up straight away , i thought my vis motors were caput , but now she runs great

sean75 · 9th March 2010, 18:08

Did mine the other day and initially it was refusing to budge. Spray a bit of wd 40 or 'free it' if you have any then leave for a while.Mine was quite stubborn as there was rust on the adjuster threads but if you wrap the adjuster in some old cloth or anyhting to stop the threads being damaged then grip with some mole grips whilst turning the black retainer it should start to move.

Just to make sure I removed the cable from the snail cam and gave the adjuster a gentle wire brushing then applied a small amount of grease to the threads. Turns easily now.

marandod · 11th February 2012, 22:17

Tomorrow i'll check mine, I'm sure needs adjustment...........

Bolin · 12th February 2012, 14:19

Hmm wonder if this qualifies for a thread revival award as challenged in the social forum?

I have always thought that by doing the adjustment as suggested on here as opposed to the Haynes method, the difference between the two is purely a 'placebo effect'?

There appears to be a certain amount of 'slack' designed into the throttle linkage, so that a certain amount of pressing down on the pedal is required before the actual butterfly moves. By adjusting it using the 'non-standard' method all you are doing is removing the 'designed-in' slack I think?

So you are not gaining any more power etc when adjusting the cable in the manner suggested on here and on .org, but are just making the throttle more responsive in the sense that you press the pedal less to get the same power/throttle opening, making it feel 'sportier' and 'more powerful', without actually improving the performance.

I.e. it's a placebo effect in that all that has changed is that you move your leg less to get exactly the same oomppphh.

Anybody disagree with my thoughts on this?

wutang · 12th February 2012, 15:12

I Disagree slightly in that using an OBD reader before adjusting mine with foot to the floor the throtle was only reaching 85% with plenty of slack on idle, with the slack taken out it opens to the late nineties % so foot to the floor I should be getting more power, not checked it for a couple of years mind.

Richard

marandod · 12th February 2012, 17:33

done on mine ZT
1) throttle is more responsive and modulable
2) power seems to be the same
3) driving feeling is much better
4) full trhottle the car seems to be a little faster when increasing RPM

Bolin · 12th February 2012, 17:53

I'll agree that if the cable is out of adjustment then adjusting it up will increase the power available if the cable was not opening the throttle fully before.

What I meant was if you adjust it further than the Haynes (MGR?) method using the method suggested on these forums - the latter won't give you any more power but will just feel more responsive, resulting in the difference noticed. But it's the same as moving your leg more.

trimani · 12th February 2012, 19:33

Most of you are nearly right, but not quite, IMHO.
I think the PLACEBO EFFECT is dead right.

Obviously taking slack out of the cable will make the pedal operate the throttle mechanism quicker, so it's not making the engine any more responsive. Its just working quicker, with less pedal action.

As far as full pedal movement is concerned, I believe if you are using the full pedal movement, with the cable adjusted properly. You are using full throttle range. If cable not adjusted correctly you are not using the throttle mechanism fully, just taking up the slack first, and possible losing a bit of top speed because throttle not opening fully.

So there you have it. The famous Placebo Effect. After a couple of weeks those of you who adjust correctly will not notice the difference any more.
Why? Because You won't go any slower, you maybe will go a little faster. If an auto and you 'creep' to much you have over adjusted. Done correctly you will however have a car that is working as it should.

IT IS DEFINATELY AN ADJUSTMENT THAT IS IMPORTANT & WORTHWHILE

12th February 2012, 19:33	#30
trimani Passed Away ROVER 75 V6 2Ltr 2001 AUTO / EMERALD MOTORBILITY SCOOTER Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Poole Quay Posts: 3,180 Thanks: 2,051 Thanked 570 Times in 311 Posts	Most of you are nearly right, but not quite, IMHO. I think the PLACEBO EFFECT is dead right. Obviously taking slack out of the cable will make the pedal operate the throttle mechanism quicker, so it's not making the engine any more responsive. Its just working quicker, with less pedal action. As far as full pedal movement is concerned, I believe if you are using the full pedal movement, with the cable adjusted properly. You are using full throttle range. If cable not adjusted correctly you are not using the throttle mechanism fully, just taking up the slack first, and possible losing a bit of top speed because throttle not opening fully. So there you have it. The famous Placebo Effect. After a couple of weeks those of you who adjust correctly will not notice the difference any more. Why? Because You won't go any slower, you maybe will go a little faster. If an auto and you 'creep' to much you have over adjusted. Done correctly you will however have a car that is working as it should. IT IS DEFINATELY AN ADJUSTMENT THAT IS IMPORTANT & WORTHWHILE Last edited by trimani; 12th February 2012 at 19:39..

9th March 2010, 16:01	#21
markb63 Avid contributor MG ZT 190 + Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: longbridge ( birmingham ) Posts: 246 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	did mine sunday afternoon and it does feel more responsive , although a lot of trial and error is needed as i mine was ticking over on 4000 rpm, turned it to far , you just need to take up the slack , you will know if you have turned it to far as the pedal and cable will be really stiff oh and it sticks lol worth the messsing about imho

9th March 2010, 18:04	#23
markb63 Avid contributor MG ZT 190 + Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: longbridge ( birmingham ) Posts: 246 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	deff not my imagination lol my throttle was dead for the first 1/2 inch or so ..... just a quick touch now and she picks up straight away , i thought my vis motors were caput , but now she runs great

9th March 2010, 18:08	#24
sean75 Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sheffield Posts: 121 Thanks: 10 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Did mine the other day and initially it was refusing to budge. Spray a bit of wd 40 or 'free it' if you have any then leave for a while.Mine was quite stubborn as there was rust on the adjuster threads but if you wrap the adjuster in some old cloth or anyhting to stop the threads being damaged then grip with some mole grips whilst turning the black retainer it should start to move. Just to make sure I removed the cable from the snail cam and gave the adjuster a gentle wire brushing then applied a small amount of grease to the threads. Turns easily now.

11th February 2012, 22:17	#25
marandod Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Roma Posts: 103 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Tomorrow i'll check mine, I'm sure needs adjustment...........

12th February 2012, 14:19	#26
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,624 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	Hmm wonder if this qualifies for a thread revival award as challenged in the social forum? I have always thought that by doing the adjustment as suggested on here as opposed to the Haynes method, the difference between the two is purely a 'placebo effect'? There appears to be a certain amount of 'slack' designed into the throttle linkage, so that a certain amount of pressing down on the pedal is required before the actual butterfly moves. By adjusting it using the 'non-standard' method all you are doing is removing the 'designed-in' slack I think? So you are not gaining any more power etc when adjusting the cable in the manner suggested on here and on .org, but are just making the throttle more responsive in the sense that you press the pedal less to get the same power/throttle opening, making it feel 'sportier' and 'more powerful', without actually improving the performance. I.e. it's a placebo effect in that all that has changed is that you move your leg less to get exactly the same oomppphh. Anybody disagree with my thoughts on this?

12th February 2012, 15:12	#27
wutang Posted a thing or two Rover 75 2.5 auto (LPG) & mg tf 160 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Dartford Posts: 1,124 Thanks: 5 Thanked 39 Times in 36 Posts	I Disagree slightly in that using an OBD reader before adjusting mine with foot to the floor the throtle was only reaching 85% with plenty of slack on idle, with the slack taken out it opens to the late nineties % so foot to the floor I should be getting more power, not checked it for a couple of years mind. Richard

12th February 2012, 17:33	#28
marandod Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Roma Posts: 103 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	done on mine ZT 1) throttle is more responsive and modulable 2) power seems to be the same 3) driving feeling is much better 4) full trhottle the car seems to be a little faster when increasing RPM

12th February 2012, 17:53	#29
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,624 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	I'll agree that if the cable is out of adjustment then adjusting it up will increase the power available if the cable was not opening the throttle fully before. What I meant was if you adjust it further than the Haynes (MGR?) method using the method suggested on these forums - the latter won't give you any more power but will just feel more responsive, resulting in the difference noticed. But it's the same as moving your leg more.