Oil pressure warning light - Page 12

merc1836 · 7th April 2008, 01:25

yes, see where your coming from, tony, any blockage on the intake side of the pump would cause low pressure , due to the pump not getting sufficient oil to give proper pressure, but reckon it would be like this over the whole rev range, whereas a slightly worn pump would give better pressure as the revs increased, don,t know any thing about bike engines though, so give way to your expertice on that. anyway , brian, would stiil suggest you use your car as normal, but moniter the oil level, and coolant, and engine temp closely(when driving), if it was really bad the engine would have siezed by now, especially after your long trip, still a strange one though!

tigerchubs · 7th April 2008, 11:05

Years ago I had a similar problem with a Volvo. I always give cars a full service and new belts etc after buying. On this particular car on looking in the oil filler cap the engine was dirty, most likely from inadequate oil changes or poor quality oil, so in went the oil flush. Anyway after the service the car was fine for a few minutes then the oil light came on. To cut a long story short when I took the sump off, the oil pick up was blocked with lumps of black carbon?. The cure was remove the oil pump including the pick up making sure everything was clear using paraffin and compressed air. On re starting I disconnected the ignition coil and turned the ongine over till the oil light went out, connected everthing back up and as they say "Roberts your fathers brother". The car was fine after that, but it cured me from using quick engine flushes.

Hope this experience helps.

tony g · 7th April 2008, 18:24

At the end of the day the main reasons for this problem are :

worn oil pump
worn crank bearings
oil pump P.R.V worn or sticking
oil pick up pipe cloged
possible blockage
oil pressure switch

their will be other things to but that would mean a full engine strip.i hope when Brian gets to the bottom of this its not too expensive and put him off a superb car

( and put us all out off our misery )

Briank · 8th April 2008, 06:21

Having read the advise which I am truely grateful, I shall be at the first opportunity be dropping the sump and cleaning the pick up filter, Just another question though. How accurate is the rev counter in the car as mines reading at approx 600 at tickover the manual tells me it should be at least 750 plus or mins 50 so again could this be an issue? Is this an easy fix the book tells me that you cannot alter the idling speed.

Sancho · 8th April 2008, 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Briank

mines reading at approx 600 at tickover the manual tells me it should be at least 750 plus

Now you tell us

That could well, I think, be a factor...

Greeners · 8th April 2008, 10:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Briank

How accurate is the rev counter in the car as mines reading at approx 600 at tickover the manual tells me it should be at least 750 plus or mins 50 so again could this be an issue? Is this an easy fix the book tells me that you cannot alter the idling speed.

I suspect you may have found the cause of your oil warning light. The idle speed is controlled soley by the ecu. It takes all it's inputs and adjusts the tickover accordingly.

I would suggest you put the car on a T4 and sort this problem first before worrying about anything else.......

stuuk · 8th April 2008, 16:11

Does the oil light go out if you hold the revs at 750rpm with the accelerator?

stocktake · 8th April 2008, 16:14

Mine is only around 650rpm, I noted eariler in the thread you said the oil light did not go out until 1000rpm. If this is correct then a 750rpm tickover would not extinguish the light........Sorry

Briank · 8th April 2008, 16:58

I will to sort this out when I get the car back. The exhaust as just blown guess what it was an original so no joints etc and the damage £ 500 notes, hells it never rains but it pours, so just what is a T4 and what would this check and adjustment cost?

Tatts · 8th April 2008, 17:02

T4 is the diagnostic computer, plugs into the port just above where your right knee is. It reads the codes & talks to the ECU.

I'd imagine an XPart centre is your best bet, unless your close to Keith Alexander, who has his own.

Cost = usually 30 mins labour - at whatever the going rate is.

8th April 2008, 16:11	#117
stuuk Regular poster Rover 75 Connie SE 1.8T Auto Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Guisborough Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Does the oil light go out if you hold the revs at 750rpm with the accelerator? __________________ Rover 75 1.8T Connie SE Auto (05) Guisborough

8th April 2008, 16:14	#118
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,602 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Mine is only around 650rpm, I noted eariler in the thread you said the oil light did not go out until 1000rpm. If this is correct then a 750rpm tickover would not extinguish the light........Sorry __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

8th April 2008, 17:02	#120
Tatts This is my second home MG6 TL Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tarn Posts: 5,269 Thanks: 2 Thanked 46 Times in 37 Posts	T4 is the diagnostic computer, plugs into the port just above where your right knee is. It reads the codes & talks to the ECU. I'd imagine an XPart centre is your best bet, unless your close to Keith Alexander, who has his own. Cost = usually 30 mins labour - at whatever the going rate is. __________________ http://www.wcgsig.com/115562.gif

7th April 2008, 01:25	#111
merc1836 Newbie none at the moment Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: fife scotland Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	yes, see where your coming from, tony, any blockage on the intake side of the pump would cause low pressure , due to the pump not getting sufficient oil to give proper pressure, but reckon it would be like this over the whole rev range, whereas a slightly worn pump would give better pressure as the revs increased, don,t know any thing about bike engines though, so give way to your expertice on that. anyway , brian, would stiil suggest you use your car as normal, but moniter the oil level, and coolant, and engine temp closely(when driving), if it was really bad the engine would have siezed by now, especially after your long trip, still a strange one though!

7th April 2008, 11:05	#112
tigerchubs Gets stuck in Rover 75 CDT+ in Yorkshire Gold Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Sheffield Posts: 975 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Years ago I had a similar problem with a Volvo. I always give cars a full service and new belts etc after buying. On this particular car on looking in the oil filler cap the engine was dirty, most likely from inadequate oil changes or poor quality oil, so in went the oil flush. Anyway after the service the car was fine for a few minutes then the oil light came on. To cut a long story short when I took the sump off, the oil pick up was blocked with lumps of black carbon?. The cure was remove the oil pump including the pick up making sure everything was clear using paraffin and compressed air. On re starting I disconnected the ignition coil and turned the ongine over till the oil light went out, connected everthing back up and as they say "Roberts your fathers brother". The car was fine after that, but it cured me from using quick engine flushes. Hope this experience helps.

7th April 2008, 18:24	#113
tony g Posted a thing or two MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: cumbria Posts: 1,238 Thanks: 8 Thanked 43 Times in 24 Posts	At the end of the day the main reasons for this problem are : worn oil pump worn crank bearings oil pump P.R.V worn or sticking oil pick up pipe cloged possible blockage oil pressure switch their will be other things to but that would mean a full engine strip.i hope when Brian gets to the bottom of this its not too expensive and put him off a superb car ( and put us all out off our misery )

8th April 2008, 06:21	#114
Briank Regular poster Rover 75 2.5 auto saloon Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Stoke on Trent Posts: 76 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Having read the advise which I am truely grateful, I shall be at the first opportunity be dropping the sump and cleaning the pick up filter, Just another question though. How accurate is the rev counter in the car as mines reading at approx 600 at tickover the manual tells me it should be at least 750 plus or mins 50 so again could this be an issue? Is this an easy fix the book tells me that you cannot alter the idling speed.

8th April 2008, 16:58	#119
Briank Regular poster Rover 75 2.5 auto saloon Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Stoke on Trent Posts: 76 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I will to sort this out when I get the car back. The exhaust as just blown guess what it was an original so no joints etc and the damage £ 500 notes, hells it never rains but it pours, so just what is a T4 and what would this check and adjustment cost?