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13th July 2011, 15:15 | #151 |
Posted a thing or two
ZT 135+ CDTI Join Date: Apr 2010
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Next thing m8 need to take dash and spoiler up to Trikey
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13th July 2011, 15:28 | #152 | |
This is my second home
75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011
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Cheers. Rich… |
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13th July 2011, 17:14 | #153 | |
Retired
R75 CDTI SE ( N80 UTD ) Join Date: Oct 2007
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Good to hear that Bob you must of had a couple of sleepless nights trying to suss it out |
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13th July 2011, 17:53 | #154 |
Posted a thing or two
Black Rover 75 Connie CDT and Twilight Chromactive ZT Turbo Join Date: Jun 2011
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John, I was beginning to think I had bought a lemon.
Sorry to throw this back on you all - the car goes way better than it's ever gone. Without pushing it, it will go to 3.5k RPM. It's coughing though. The hotter the engine gets, the more it coughs. I know it's supposed to be self priming, but I'm wondering if I should have switched the key to "2" and activatied the pumps before re-connecting the fuel lines back onto the rail. I should perhaps say, when I bought the car, the MAF was disconnected. I re-connected it while I had it in bits. I can't see that the MAF would have this affect on it. To me it would be all or nothing. Am I wrong? or does anyone have any ideas. I should also say, I think the car was laid up for quite a bit of time before I got it. Oh, and it's chucking out white smoke now instead of black. |
13th July 2011, 19:33 | #155 |
This is my second home
75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011
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try disconnecting what you did before,then re do it and prime the pump see what happens. If its coughing sounds like the under bonnet pump is not working properly,mine did that after I replaced it with a 2nd hand one,it would only go to 3.5k and then start spluttering and kicking,like it wasn't getting enough fuel,is this what its like?
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