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31st January 2016, 17:30 | #11 | |
This is my second home
N/A Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
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Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
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Quote:
Tried chiselling, tried heat, tried drilling, tried hammering, tried pulling, nothing! Gave up and called my Dad. After several more failures, he pulled out a hydraulic puller. Using an old socket managed to push it out. No chance I would've done that with any ordinary puller. Had to take the caliper off to make room (it was big). Putting the new one in was just as hard, virtually impossible to get it go in straight, but finally got it in - again, with the hydraulic puller. My home-made puller was useful for pulling the bush out when I put it in wrong (several times), though. Once the bush was in, putting everything else back together was luckily quite simple. Just come inside to get the torque figures to tighten everything up. I put in 2 hours yesterday, and about 7 today... and it's an hour book time! What a joke. Garage can do the other side... |
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21st February 2016, 19:39 | #12 |
This is my second home
N/A Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
Thanks: 0
Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
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Did the other side today. A lot easier now I know what I'm doing!
You can drop the anti-roll bar at either end - the drop link was seized to the anti-roll bar so I disconnected the drop link from the arm instead. In hindsight I'm not even sure you need to remove it. I borrowed a hydraulic 10 ton Sykes Pickavant puller - and even then it struggled. There's no way that my home made tool would of worked. I used a 32mm 12-point socket to push them in / out but it was slightly too small. The tools are available on eBay for as little as £60 - very tempted to pick one up as a spare. There's no way I could of done this job without it. |
21st February 2016, 19:45 | #13 |
This is my second home
MG ZT-T 190 Monogram Typhoon Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 4,716
Thanks: 328
Thanked 557 Times in 443 Posts
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I replaced these on my project car, but had the trailing arms removed completely. I used a hydraulic press to get them out. Took a fair bit of force, and they 'popped' well.
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26th April 2017, 18:25 | #14 |
Regular poster
MG ZT-T Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gellilydan
Posts: 48
Thanks: 22
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
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Sorry to drag up an old thread, but trying to find the correct diameter of the inner hole for the top arm bush on the hub. I.e. The outer diameter of the bush itself. Managed to get a tool but not sure if it's too big at 43mm as various measurements are out there.
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26th October 2019, 18:18 | #15 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Penrith
Posts: 1,336
Thanks: 165
Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts
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Thanks for this. Just ordered 2 of the BMW upper ball joint/bushes. As all the other nuts and bolts came away with just reasonable force, plenty of soaking in penetrating fluid, and a long 15mm hex socket to get at the inner upper pivot bolt, I am hoping I don't fall at the last hurdle getting these bushes out. I'm having to change the n/s upper arm, (rusty holes) and having removed it, found that the spring was broken at the bottom, so I have ordered 2 new ones (Monroe) for £95 from Micks Garage After that, I have the front lower arms to replace, and hopefully it will then pass MoT. (Due in 3 weeks, but I want to get it in early). So including the clutch, that's about £600 in parts so far this year, not including normal service parts. To put things in perspective, I met a man yesterday whose pride and joy XJ40 had just had £4,000 of auto gearbox reconditioning done.
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