ZT front springs, the garage can't compress them. Bit urgent. - Page 2

EdgarDonaldBalls · 30th May 2018, 12:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

Am trying to think outside the box here. Do you have tyre protectors on? I am wondering if he thinks the tyre protector is the spring cup, and then he is using the actual spring cup of the strut and the top mount to compress (although this should still work to a degree). Am clutching at straws to imagine someone not familiar with our cars, being presented with it.

Suggest to him to compress the central 2 or 3 coils . this should give enough to remove the top mount (although it may still be under a little tension, and will likely 'pop' off if done this way , so suggest it is done pointing away from anything and anyone! - this of method IS dangerous)

Does he not want to do the job perhaps?

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Nope, no tyre protectors on. I wish there were as it would have saved the tyre. He said he tried to put the compressor under the cup when he couldn't do it the usual way but even that wouldn't work.

It's possible he just doesn't want to do it but if he has the struts off, you would think it wouldn't be much trouble to just get it done. I'll be able to tell if the strut hasn't been removed anyway.

suzublu · 30th May 2018, 13:06

I've got big fat Eibach Pro lowering springs on & they were fitted with normal compressors

mh007 · 30th May 2018, 13:18

I've never had a problem changing these springs before with standard spring compressors.
I will say that on some different makes/models, I've had to use 2 pairs to compress them enough.

clf · 30th May 2018, 13:31

So, the spring is broken?

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdgarDonaldBalls

Nope, no tyre protectors on. I wish there were as it would have saved the tyre. He said he tried to put the compressor under the cup when he couldn't do it the usual way but even that wouldn't work.

It's possible he just doesn't want to do it but if he has the struts off, you would think it wouldn't be much trouble to just get it done. I'll be able to tell if the strut hasn't been removed anyway.

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Arctic · 30th May 2018, 13:36

Hi Adam.
So ok I have gone outside to the shed and removed the spring on the spare strut I have which was already off the car, therefore in the same position as your chap.

This is what I used a set of Neilsen heavy duty compressors

1

2

Add the spring compressors to the spring as below

3

Note the compressors have been fitted under the cup to which the tyre protector would fit to, this as to be done so the spring will compress enough to remove the top bearing.

4

Once in place you can then wind down the compressors equally as you go.

5

Once you have the spring fully compressed as here below.

6

You can now undo and remove the top mount bearing, Allen key and a 18mm ratchet ring spanner.

7

Nut wound to the edge of the thread.

8

The nut can now be removed safely.

9

Then the top bearing.

10

All that is left now is to rewind off the spring compressors again equally and slowly.

11

Once I reach so far I take another precaution I add a small spring compressor solely for safety

12

Once I know all the tension as gone from the spring I slowly undo the small spring compressor job done.

13

The spring is ready to be removed for changing over to a new one.

14

Spring off the front strut along with the top bearing.

15

16

Hopefully this will help it took me 45 minutes as I was taking photo's along the way therefore maybe 30 minutes if you are steady as you should be with these springs as they can bite back

Arctic.

EdgarDonaldBalls · 30th May 2018, 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Adam.
So ok I have gone outside to the shed and removed the spring on the spare strut I have which was already off the car, therefore in the same position as your chap.

(all the useful stuff was here once)

Hopefully this will help it took me 45 minutes as I was taking photo's along the way therefore maybe 30 minutes if you are steady as you should be with these springs as they can bite back

Arctic.

Thanks for going to all that effort, that's some detailed and useful information.

I doubt I can get a lift to the garage today but I should see the chap tonight and will show him all this.

EdgarDonaldBalls · 30th May 2018, 13:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

So, the spring is broken?

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Yep, one of the springs is broken, pretty much the entire bottom coil. I had to cut off about 10cm off the broken section to get the car able to move without destroying another tyre.

I thought this would make it easier to remove due to less tension.

clf · 30th May 2018, 14:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdgarDonaldBalls

Yep, one of the springs is broken, pretty much the entire bottom coil. I had to cut off about 10cm off the broken section to get the car able to move without destroying another tyre.

I thought this would make it easier to remove due to less tension.

There's something not quite right here. Could there be a miscommunication, or misunderstanding? When my spring broke, once the car was jacked to put the stands in and remove the wheel, the spring practically fell out, and it was original too.

Has he tried to simply pull the strut up, I am thinking it has collapsed and looks like it compressed .

Great tutorial by arctic there by the way

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EdgarDonaldBalls · 30th May 2018, 14:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

There's something not quite right here. Could there be a miscommunication, or misunderstanding? When my spring broke, once the car was jacked to put the stands in and remove the wheel, the spring practically fell out, and it was original too.

Has he tried to simply pull the strut up, I am thinking it has collapsed and looks like it compressed .

Great tutorial by arctic there by the way

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

Maybe he started on the other side with the intact spring and can't do that one?

I sent a text and have tried calling but haven't heard back yet so I have no idea what's happening.

TomRS · 30th May 2018, 15:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdgarDonaldBalls

Maybe he started on the other side with the intact spring and can't do that one?

I sent a text and have tried calling but haven't heard back yet so I have no idea what's happening.

Very mysterious... i have also fitted coilovers to mine, but before that had some lowering springs that were simple as per Arctic above.
Took me no more than 20mins to remove the spring... if im honest i didnt even bother compressing it much just buzzed it off under a tiny bit of tension and it just popped off.
(wanted to keep the lowering springs to sell) and it was straight forward.

The comment on the struts would also be void as the spring would force the strut to its highest point.
You can only really check strut rebound once the spring is removed.

30th May 2018, 13:36	#15
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,792 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Adam. So ok I have gone outside to the shed and removed the spring on the spare strut I have which was already off the car, therefore in the same position as your chap. This is what I used a set of Neilsen heavy duty compressors 1 2 Add the spring compressors to the spring as below 3 Note the compressors have been fitted under the cup to which the tyre protector would fit to, this as to be done so the spring will compress enough to remove the top bearing. 4 Once in place you can then wind down the compressors equally as you go. 5 Once you have the spring fully compressed as here below. 6 You can now undo and remove the top mount bearing, Allen key and a 18mm ratchet ring spanner. 7 Nut wound to the edge of the thread. 8 The nut can now be removed safely. 9 Then the top bearing. 10 All that is left now is to rewind off the spring compressors again equally and slowly. 11 Once I reach so far I take another precaution I add a small spring compressor solely for safety 12 Once I know all the tension as gone from the spring I slowly undo the small spring compressor job done. 13 The spring is ready to be removed for changing over to a new one. 14 Spring off the front strut along with the top bearing. 15 16 Hopefully this will help it took me 45 minutes as I was taking photo's along the way therefore maybe 30 minutes if you are steady as you should be with these springs as they can bite back Arctic. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 30th May 2018 at 13:41.. Reason: Photo editing

30th May 2018, 13:06	#12
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,956 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	I've got big fat Eibach Pro lowering springs on & they were fitted with normal compressors

30th May 2018, 13:18	#13
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	I've never had a problem changing these springs before with standard spring compressors. I will say that on some different makes/models, I've had to use 2 pairs to compress them enough.