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6th January 2014, 18:58 | #11 | ||
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No problem just drop me a PM whenever you are ready, cheers Arctic. Quote:
Once you have started it will nit take that long, I can do them easy now in 15-20 minutes but that's after doing quite a few the knack is holding the carpet back and always working from the rear passengers side works for me cheers Arctic.
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6th January 2014, 19:00 | #12 |
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Does that timescale account for adjustment at the shoes in the hubs?
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6th January 2014, 19:32 | #13 | |
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The carpet restricting access to the torx bolts on the compensator plate make the job particularly awkward. Dave T |
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6th January 2014, 20:20 | #14 |
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I'm sure it would if you was doing it Pab
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6th January 2014, 22:09 | #15 | |
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Tricky Question
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You do that your self its called getting your hands dirty, or as with the ethos of the nano we are there to help you. Perhaps the best way to explain would be by example. Let's say it's Sunday afternoon and you have a job to do on your car. You think you can manage it but you are concerned about getting stuck in because you will need the car for work the next day. Wouldn't it be great if a mate turned up and just gave you that extra bit of confidence to say:- "Yes, remove that bolt." or "Yes, cut the blue wire." You can adjust that in so and so way etc. That's what nano-meets are all about. You do the work, but with the knowledge that there is somebody nearby who can keep you on the right track, provide the correct tool or the appropriate wiring diagram as and when needed. It really is a great feeling when you finish the job and it all works perfectly . But you know this so why the trick question, everybody with any common sense knows you would not be able to fit a compensator in 15-20mins and adjust at the rear brake drums as well. Well certainly not the way I do it which is take the disc drum off clean and inspect all the parts, adjust to the required amount & refit Arctic.
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6th January 2014, 23:32 | #16 |
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I know this is me being lazy but is there a how to guide for changing the shoes and setting the hand brake.
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6th January 2014, 23:40 | #17 | |
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I have taken photo's of the drum disc and adjusting at the rear also setting the hand brake I have just not as of yet posted them, I will do in the near future, to set the just the handbrake at the front cable is straight forward, once the rear have be adjusted cheers Arctic. PS click the link http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 6th January 2014 at 23:45.. |
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6th January 2014, 23:48 | #18 | |
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So is it worth just adjusting the cable at handbrake lever end 1st ?? It's virtually vertical at moment. It does stop the car from rolling though
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7th January 2014, 00:01 | #19 | |
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I would change the compensator, as all the front adjustment seems to have it's been used up, fit the modified one adjust at the rear then the golden 25mm at the front and you should have a good working handbrake on three clicks which will hold you on any hill, Arctic
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 7th January 2014 at 21:12.. |
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7th January 2014, 12:37 | #20 |
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If the compensator has stretched anything up to 17mm then replacing it will bring the handbrake lever back to an acceptable position.
The handbrake adjustment at the rear drums can be done at a later date. If you are replacing the compensator on a grassy field, adjusting the rear drums is not practical and should be done on hard ground, preferably in a garage. Dave T |
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