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16th November 2017, 11:51 | #11 |
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try an injector leakback test then.....
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16th November 2017, 11:53 | #12 |
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Possible MAF sensor?
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16th November 2017, 16:30 | #13 |
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Cam or crank sensor.--
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16th November 2017, 17:18 | #14 |
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16th November 2017, 17:31 | #15 |
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A failing crank sensor can cause both running and starting problems as the ECM uses the crank sensor signal to time the fuel injection.
A failing cam sensor can cause starting problems but can't have any effect once the engine has started as the ECM ignores the signal after the initial start reference until the engine starts again. I'd agree with Greeners though - worth carrying out an injector leak back test to rule out any failing injectors. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 16th November 2017 at 17:40.. |
16th November 2017, 19:02 | #16 |
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Listening to everyone and thanks. Tomorrow will attend to crank sensor and maf suggestions as far as I can. Jeremy
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16th November 2017, 19:26 | #17 |
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Have you checked that the UBP is running when it won't start. The fact that it runs otherwise does not rule it out as the problem.
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9th February 2018, 11:35 | #18 |
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I just want to thank everybody who made valuable suggestions and to close off the thread.
Based on advice, I purchased a new in-tank pump and had it fitted by my local mechanic (who is excellent). However it did not solve the problem and the car struggled on until the new year, making a number of family trips to Dublin and frequently going into what seemed like limp-home mode. A few weeks ago I found a guy in Limerick with sufficient diagnostic equipment to rule out an electrical/electronic problem and to identify the fault as connected to fuel pressure. I then took it across to Portlaoise, about 100km away, to a very good family outfit called Portlaoise Diesel Injection who were strongly recommended by my mechanic. They connected their diagnostic equipment which identified a pre-injection fault, thus ruling out the injectors themselves. Bernard fiddled around under the bonnet for a few minutes before his unerring fingers lighted on the under bonnet pump, which he wiggled and which stopped pumping properly. A few more repeats of this 'test' confirmed the source as this pump which nobody had suspected to be the culprit as they apparently don't often go wrong. A quick delivery from E car parts Ltd in Bedforshire to the garage saw the car fixed and beautifully driveable once more (especially as I had also had a new thermostat fitted during this period and the car was as warm as toast again). In all the labour at various places set me back only 135 Euro and the parts were regular advertised UK prices plus postage. So I am pretty pleased as I love the Rover and glad not to be totally dependent on my little MGF during this cold weather. One accidental consequence is that I have a spare working in-tank pump which looks pretty good to me. If anybody is looking for one and is prepared to pay the postage, I would be prepared to make it available. Thanks again to everyone and if there is a lesson to be learned, check the under bonnet pump first by wiggling it about while starting the engine as that is the easiest and cheapest test to do. Regards Jeremy |
9th February 2018, 12:40 | #19 | |
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And the remote diagnostic of quarter award goes to.....
Quote:
Glad to see you've finally got a happy resolution.
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10th February 2018, 00:22 | #20 |
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Under Bonnet Fuel Pump
I change an UBFP for the same reasons on a local owners car today, once these under bonnet fuel pumps start to fail replace asap other wise you could get stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Use and replace with only the pierburg in my opinion and also change the fuel filter at the same time Arctic.
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