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23rd December 2014, 19:56 | #21 | |
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Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
a diesel! The cup at the base of the diesel Hydramount is a large piece of metal and should not suffer any damage throughout the cars life IMO. |
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30th December 2014, 18:21 | #22 |
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75 cdti - Royal Blue + Velocette kss mk2 (1936) + Sunbeam model 9 500cc (1935) Join Date: Jan 2014
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Hydramount change cdti
Removed my Hydramount on my Cdti today and it was badly split,also under inspection the Tie bar top mount rubber has also badly split, part number kkh101852, there seems to be a couple of variants on rimmers website, looking for a seconhand as rimmers new are approx £92, worth checking this part when changing your hydramount.
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14th April 2015, 09:35 | #23 |
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i have noticed that my intermittant vibration is a lot better in warm weather.
this suggests to me that maybe the glycol in the hyrdramount is past its best. |
25th April 2015, 20:57 | #24 |
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Thanks for the guide - halfway through the job and I just thought I'd say that having the big black metal block over the bolt isn't a major problem - but not having a deep 18mm socket is!
You need one, I need one |
26th April 2015, 06:45 | #25 |
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I have to say a massive THANK YOU to my brilliant dad, (WUZERK) who, just a few days after coming out of hospital after surgery, very kindly supervised me in fitting a new Hydramount (from DMGRS) to Roxy. At Thirteen years old and 112,000, she was noticeably more buzzy in terms of vibrations at the steering wheel than his car which had a new Hydramount fitted. I could also see and feel the difference at the engine and feel it inside the cabin. I can do basic service tasks, but am not a competent spanner man, but dad talked me through each step and I did not manage to loose any bolts or break any of his tools. Whilst underneath the car, I took off the Lower engine mount which looked OK at first, but on closer inspection it was badly split on both sides in several places, so I fitted a new one (from DMGRS), as part of the job. Driving home, I just could not believe the difference in Roxy. She is now soooo smooth, I can't put my finger on how, but she just feels like a new car, no more vibrations at the steering wheel, and a real pleasure to drive. I must admit I was terrified lying underneath the car, with a wheel jack and piece of wood under the sump, the engine swinging in the breeze and dad saying, 'Oh, the bolts are not lined up......!', but all went well and all I can say is it's one of the most brilliant 'mods' I have done to Roxy. Thanks Wuzerk, I am ready to tour Scotland in a few weeks now and as happy as a pig in the you-know-what
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26th April 2015, 07:32 | #26 |
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Socket
I just moved the socket further down on the 1/2" square drive so that it just engaged the 18mm nut.....job done.
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26th April 2015, 07:37 | #27 | |
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Hydramount
Quote:
engine movement. |
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26th April 2015, 20:16 | #28 | |
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Quote:
In my case I had to use a 36" breaker bar to undo basically all of the bolts in this job - they were all horrifically tight (much tighter than the torque figures in RAVE). |
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9th May 2015, 12:04 | #29 |
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Re; crank pulley change / engine mount
Hello All, I know this is a rather late edition to the original post, but only just came across it.
Ok, I read with great interest the discussions about the top engine hydramount. Approx' 6 months ago the crank pulley failed on my ZT-T cdti (with X-power 160bhp remap, 102000 miles, fsh). I had the pulley changed by a mechanic I trust, and who has experience of working on these cars. I should point out the replacement was an aftermarket item. At the same time, the aux' belt was replaced. Upon collecting the car, she now 'rattles' noticeably more than before, only at tickover speeds - as soon as the revs pick-up, the noise goes. This was extremely annoying as previously she ran as sweet as a nut, and I'm obsessive about things not being right. Then had idler and tensioner replaced (not cheap); made no difference whatsoever. Came across a thread from a guy with similar problem who had replaced virtually everything on the aux' belt line, all to no avail until he changed the belt for a different make; noise went. So, recently had the belt changed (again) for a genuine one. No difference, another 160 quid wasted. The car still runs perfectly, no leaks from power steering. So, is the replacement aftermarket crank pulley the problem? Very expensive to change to a genuine one just to find it isn't. Or is the unwanted tickover noise coincidental? If you pour water on the aux' belt at the p' steering pump, although the belt squeals, the engine noise smooths out and the noise disappears. As soon as the belt dries out, the noise is back. Now going outside to have a look at the hydramount. A very interesting and helpful thread, I hope some of what I mentioned is of use to someone. Rick Last edited by ricklincs45; 9th May 2015 at 12:08.. |
9th May 2015, 12:21 | #30 |
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Rattle
If you do mean 'rattle' and not 'vibrate ' and since you state that it rattled
more than before the crank pulley was changed it certainly sounds like the replacement is the problem. The water test is pretty reliable too so seems to confirm it. This seems to be the original quality make but you could do a search for a cheaper supplier. http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/p...mper-lhg100750 I seem to remember something about the landrover/freelander item being the same and cheaper......ISLAND 4X4 rings a bell! Last edited by wuzerk; 9th May 2015 at 12:30.. |
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